Forum Topic

What is a good durable brand ng servo type avr in the market? Omni , Akari , Panther , Sieg , CDR King?

  • Exactly, super mahal ng Stac, haha. Napa-atras ako sa presyo nung tinawagan ko yung distro nila dito e.

    Is Panther better than those Stavol blues?
  • @Peorth

    Did not bother to mention the Stac Japan as those are unrealistic and siguro swak un sa mga mahilig mag welding or napapalibutan ng mga nag-jujumper XD. Dun na lang sa Panther at medyo realistic ang comparison compared to the 2k+ AVRs.

    @kevindd992002

    I've had good experience sa Stavol Blue and Samwon AVRs (this one lasted for 10 years and still counting). May iba ding brand na ok if you back-read sa thread. Nandyan din yung mga diminishing returns na AVRs gaya nung mga Stac Japan, Panther and others.
    Nasa sayo yan, kung afford mo yung latter, den walang pumipigil sayo na bilhin un.
  • kevindd992002 Send Message View User Items on 16 Nov 20 @ 11:02 AM #
    Exactly, super mahal ng Stac, haha. Napa-atras ako sa presyo nung tinawagan ko yung distro nila dito e.

    Is Panther better than those Stavol blues?


    I have both, but I cannot make a durability comparison since bago pa lang Stavol ko.

    My Panther though, naka dalawang repair na.

    Price - Panther is twice as expensive as Stavol.
    Weight - Panther is also twice as heavy as Stavol.
  • IMHO, weight is actually one measure of quality because it means thicker/more durable materials (e.g. copper wire) were use in the construction of the AVR. Not so long ago I opened a cheapo relay-type AVR that lasted only a few months. It was very light and I was not surprised to see a small transformer inside. I've never owned a Panther AVR though I know they have a lifetime service warranty (you only pay for parts) which is the same as Zebra.
  • Yeah, my question is more on what the technical differences between Panther and Stavol Blue are, not so much about the price. Though I don't plan on spending more than 5K+ for a 3KVA, I still want to know the differences, hence my question.
  • This price on this is unrealistic:

    https://shopee.ph/Panther-PVS-3000-Servo-Motor-Type-AVR-with-Power-on-Delay-Output-110V-and-220V-AC-i.226793333.4516944228

    That's already Stac Japan territory.
  • It is OK to put surge protectors after the AVR? Or much better na lang ang plain power strip? Needed the extra outlet for phone chargers.
  • Kung may surge protector ka lagay mo before the AVR. Then kung kailangan mo ng additional outlets kahit plain power strip na lang, though wala naman problem kung maglagay ka ng isa pang surge protector.
  • ^

    Salamat sir, nag ground pa rin kasi ako pag hahawakan ko ang ports ng monitor, o minsan yung casing. inisip ko kung paano mawawala ang ground.
  • Kung parang flow of electricity ("electrical shock", mali kasi ang Pinoy term na "ground") ang nararamdaman mo hindi yan maso-solve ng paglagay ng surge protector. Ang solution ay dapat may working ground/earthing ang wall socket (meaning may grounding rod ang bahay, tapos may ground wire na nakalatag sa sockets), then lahat ng nakasaksak sa wall socket ay may unbroken grounding. So for example ,yung AVR walang grounding pin (2 prongs lang ang plug) then walang protective ground na aabot sa PC. Same for yung surge suppressor, power strip, PSU power cord, etc., lahat yan dapat may grounding pin para may unbroken connection from wall socket ground to yung PC mismo.

    Ang problem, maraming bahay sa Pinas walang grounding at all. Ang isang solution would be to jury rig a ground. Kailangan mo ng grounding rod (minimum length of 8 feet), wire, at "cheater plug" with grounding tab. Yung ground wire kailangan i-connect sa metal tab ng cheater plug, then yung PSU power cable with intact grounding pin ang nakaplug diyan.


  • ^ yes, parang mild electrical shock, kahit sa laptop ko meron. mukhang walang grounding dito sa inuupahan namin, since puro 2 prong lahat ng sockets. mukhang for now I have to live with it. hopefully hindi masira ang computer, lolz.
  • Sir bakit ang daming stavol na ngayon na AVR. Merong goldsouce, merong blue, may stavol na black, merong matsunaga. Ano ano ba difference nila?
  • Yung goldsource na stavol pala parang panget due to this: Response Time: within 4 sec against 10%, Input Fluctuation

    Yung blue stavol: Adjusting Time: 1.5 sec (when input voltage has a change of 10%)

    Matsunaga: within 0.5 seconds response time change of 10%

    Black: cant find kung gaano kabilis yung reaction time.
  • Hello guys. Need advise if relay or servo type AVR ang need ko.

    May weird akong na experience sa Deco na wifi ko. Sa isang bahay kasi, dalawa units ng mesh wifi. The main one, walang problem. The extension one, it's not working properly. So isosoli ko dapat. Naisipan kong saksak at iset up yung mesh wifi dito sa bahay namin sa Sucat. Voila. Gumagana. No issues.

    Hinala ko power stability. Other suspects are:

    - Hindi stable powerline. Nawawala din net paminsan minsan. Lalo na pag nag welding or gumagamit power tools sa garahe.
    - Nasira condenser ng aircon after just a year of use.
    - Hindi gumana itong Deco unit. Straight to wall outlet siya nakasaksak.
    - The main Deco unit is working fine kasi (might be) nakasaksak siya sa UPS with AVR.
    - Humihina bigla ilaw sa isang room.
    - Edit, may POE injector din pala akong di gumana agad sa unang saksak. So parang sobrang swerte ko naman sa lemon units.

    So I'm out sa market ngayon for an AVR. Dun ko isasaksak yung isang unit ng mesh wifi sana. Not sure if relay is good enough o dapat servo. Also, kapag laptop plus two monitors ba is okay na relay type? Parang marami-rami kasi akong bibilhin kaya as much as possible, relay type lang sana bibilhin ko.

    -- edited by diesus on Dec 10 2020, 04:47 PM
  • @joms

    San mo nakita yung Matsunaga?
  • @diesus

    Before investing in a bunch of AVRs, I suggest you do some checking first. First thing I'd do would be to check the voltage coming into the house, which can easily be done with a multimeter. Same for the problematic outlets, then compare with with ones that are ok or less problematic. Check not only the voltage itself but if it fluctuates widely. Other things to check would be the integrity of the house's electrical system (e.g. the fuses or circuit breakers, wiring of the wall sockets, etc.), which might require an electrician if you're not that familiar with residential AC wiring. Lastly, if lights tend to flicker it's probably an issue with the service drop (the wires coming into the house from the utility pole or the distribution wiring), specifically one or both of the connections are loose. This can only be fixed by linemen from the power company e.g. Meralco.

    -- edited by Peorth on Dec 10 2020, 11:56 PM
  • if i have an AVR rated 3000w with one(1) 110v outlet can i plug in and extension cord and plug 2 devices rated 1200w each?
  • @Peorth

    Thanks for the steps! I'll do this as soon as I can.

    And then if mataas fluctuations, depende sa swing ako mag decide ng type of AVR?
  • if i have an AVR rated 3000w with one(1) 110v outlet can i plug in and extension cord and plug 2 devices rated 1200w each?


    Are the two devices that are 1200 W both 110 volts? Power (watts) = volts x amperes, and given that the standard AC voltage here is 220-240 volts then the 3000 watts is likely computed using 220 multiplied by the maximum current the AVR's transformer can handle. The 110 V output is part of the 3000-watt rating but it might NOT be designed to carry 2400 watts @ 110 volts. The problem with lower voltages is that it requires more current to achieve the same power rating. This will be obvious if you look at the equation:

    Power = voltage x current

    To get the same power at a lower voltage you'll need more current, which requires thicker wires. Otherwise, they'll overheat and possibly burn. For example, to power a 1000-watt device @ 220V:
    Current = power/voltage (just rearranging the equation)
    = 1000 watts/220 volts
    = 4.54 amperes

    At 110 volts:
    Current = 1000 watts/110 volts
    = 9.09 amperes

    In other words, at 110 volts you'll need exactly TWICE the amount of current (amps) compared to 220 volts to get the same power (wattage). That's why it's highly likely you'll overload the AVRs single 110-volt outlet if you plug two devices that draw 2400 watts of power. The safer solution is to buy a step-down transformer that's rated at 3 kW (if you put in a safety margin of 20% that's 2880 watts, so closest "round" number is 3000). With this you'll be 100% sure you won't overload the transformer, the only issue is that if you really need voltage regulation you'll need to plug the step-down transformer into an AVR that's rated the same and this raises the cost significantly.

    Incidentally, it's pretty rate to find high-wattage 110-volt devices here; these stuff are usually from abroad where the standard voltage is 110 V (like the U.S.). But even in the U.S., the appliances that really use a lot of power like heaters are rated at 220 V and not 110 V so that excessively thick wires will not be necessary.

    And then if mataas fluctuations, depende sa swing ako mag decide ng type of AVR?


    You should read this guide from Panther about choosing an AVR, it's quite informative and compares the two types:
    <click here for link>

    Simply put, sensitive electronic devices like lab/medical equipment need a servo-type AVR while other stuff like most household appliances only need a relay-type AVR.

    -- edited by Peorth on Dec 11 2020, 11:51 PM
  • guys plano ko kasi bibili ng 5kva para sa aircon, nature kasi ng avr na ng titicker every time na may fluctuation, ano po bang pina ka recommended position na pra di mo sya marinig, para kasi sya sa air-con ng function hall. based din sa quality ng panther kung may nakabili man dito ng 5kva, maingay ba sya?
  • Guys pa help naman baka may idea kayo, meron kasi akong Meiji AVR na 1000W. Medyo may fluctuations dito sa area namin, tapos pag naglalaro ako, namamatay yung PC ko after mag make ng sound ng AVR (siguro dahil sa fluctations) pero hindi sya completely shutdown. Bale parang nagrestart lang yung PC kasi bukas pa rin yung RGB lights nya tapos nagboboot ng sarili. Pati yung AVR hindi rin sya namamatay. Bakit kaya sya namamatay during gaming? Eto yung video everytime namamatay yung PC (around 18s): https://streamable.com/64552g
  • ^ ang alam ko mabagal ang reaction time ng mga Servo AVR compared sa Relay type. I think a true sine-wave UPS will do the job kaso medyo mahal lang. Yung pinaka affordable ng alam ko is yung Cyberpower kso hindi ko lam kung may nabibili pa rito. Meron daw sa Cubao kso hindi ata sila active sa online site nila kaya hirap malaman kung buhay pa yung store o baka matanggal ng sarado.

    -- edited by RyuzakiL on Feb 16 2021, 07:40 PM
  • Thanks sir! Pero napansin ko, bakit kaya tuwing nagbebenchmark ako using Heaven, lalo nagflufluctuate yung sa output meter ng AVR tsaka umiingay? Once nagflufluctuate, yung green light ng AVR nagiging orange ng split second (di masyado kita sa vid dahil sobra bilis). Pag nagshushutdown din ako, tumutunog yung AVR once mamatay na ng fully yung PC? May problem kaya dito?

    Benchmark: https://streamable.com/itqf8a
    Shutdown: https://streamable.com/pcpkkw
  • mga sir,

    ok lang po ba gumamit ng surge protector tpos cheap na avr temporarily, mga ilang days lang, habang nagcacanvass palang ng avr/ups na maganda.,hehe
  • Yokohama 1500VA



    Stac 1500VA



    -- edited by dexski on Mar 17 2021, 07:13 PM
  • Post deleted #12372377
  • @wimpyorc

    Ang alam ko sa sa AVR kapag tumutunog that means gumagana yung Voltage adjustment nya.
  • hi guys planning to get a 3000 watts AVR (Stavol Blue) plan ko sana gamitin sa 2HP LG Inverter AC ko. may nakakabit ako na digital ammeter and mukhang kakayanina e. kasi sa peak operation niya pag kaka on max lang na 2000 watts siya, and mukhang di naman ganun kalakas ang inrush current niya dahil pag inverter naman nakikita ko it starts at 200 watts when i press on, then 300 watts then 500 and so on hanggang 2000 watts pag talagang mainit pa yung room.

    reason bakit gusto ko gumamit kasi kung minsan ambaba ng reading sa outlet namin dito sa province. 190-200volts pag peak hours, and also using an old 35kva generator para sa business namin e naglolow voltage na pag ginagamit namin sa brownout (185volts-189volts)

    Thanks in advance sa opinion niyo :)
  • Good day po. May question lang po ako sa nabili ko na Supremo AVR 5000w/va. May 2 po meter (input at output). Nangyari po ay after iopen yung led light sa kusina, nag flicker once yung bulb and yung output meter ng avr namatay (on po yung power delay 5min) pero yung input meter no change lang po. Question po ay kung ganun po talaga yjng both meter na output lang ang always nagmove if may sudden changes sa kuryente and if na trigger yung power on delay function nya it means mas mababa yung kuryente that time. Di naman po nag brownout sa bahay. Kumindat lang po. Yung avr po pala for AC namin pero off naman po that time. Salamat
  • hi guys planning to get a 3000 watts AVR (Stavol Blue) plan ko sana gamitin sa 2HP LG Inverter AC ko

    Gawin mo nang 5KVA Stavol. If you ask most AVR sellers, yun din ang sasabihin nila for a 2HP aircon.