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DC Inverter Aircon Thread (Aircon roundup and FAQ on page 1)

  • With so many people dropping by asking for recommendations, naisip ko na gumawa ng mini-roundup ng 1hp inverter aircons to help potential buyers come to a decision sooner.. This is by no means an authoritative guide, so please take it with a grain of salt.. First part is for Window-Type and the second part is for Basic Split-Type units.

    So here is my roundup of the 1HP window-type inverters that are currently available in the market.. (in no particular order!)

    1. Panasonic CW-XS108VPH <click here for link> This thing should still be on top of any buyer's list. Despite being an outgoing model, this thing is still one mean dual fan machine that leads the market in durability and value. <click here for link> Expect it to be marked down as the newer model is also available.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.8
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 375 x 700



    2. Panasonic CW-XU1021VPH <click here for link> <click here for link> Panasonic finally unveils their updated unit and this bad boy means business! Dual DC fan motors, more compact than the previous unit, yet even more efficient! And it even comes with NanoE standard! All this at the price of 33k!! Oh and it finally has an autofan speed setting! Woot!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.4
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 346 x 655



    3. LG LA100GC <click here for link> LG's updated compact unit has a lot of features in a small package. Wifi, Dry Mode, and even Sleep Mode that you will usually find only on a split-type unit are standard. Efficiency is a bit low which is typical of compact units. BTW, it has a 0.75hp sibling in case your room is a bit on the tiny side.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.1
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 497 x 317 x 623



    4. LG LA100EL <click here for link> Of course LG also has a full-sized unit that has high efficiency values on top of wifi, dry mode, and sleep modes. Great value unit in spite of not having an auto air swing!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.42
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 600 x 380 x 630



    5. Koppel KV09WR-ARF31 <click here for link> Homegrown aircon manufacturer Koppel joins the fray with their own high-efficiency unit that's most probably a tweaked Midea FP-51ARA010HEIV-N4 with a custom touch panel, IR receiver, front grille, and DC fan motor. They're more expensive than the Midea units but they're more powerful on paper and should be sized like a conventional unit as they have a different cooling routine. Be warned as parts from Koppel can be very expensive.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.5
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 400 x 670



    6. Gree KX-25i / U-J09-6DR <click here for link> Chinese aircon leader Gree has the local distinction of being the most rebadged window-type unit available. They may look plain, but these units are no slouches in the performance and durability departments. A full-DC model is also available!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.82
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 375 x 708


    Known variants: KOLIN KAG-110RSINV 1.0 HP; Everest ETIV10AWD/G 1HP; Sharp AF-X10SCF 1HP; FUJIDENZO IWAR-90G 1.0 HP; Tosot TJC09VRZ; American Home AHAC-WTI1000IOX; Imarflex IAC-100WRi-KA; Homemate HGWT-I-100R ; York YWJF09-HRORX; Samsung AW09AYHGAWKNTC ; Unitech UT-GJC09VR <-- Cheapest 1HP window-type inverter in the country with limited stocks available!

    7. TCL TAC-09CWI/W <click here for link> TCL is the second most affordable unit in our roundup; it won't burn a huge hole in your pocket, but will require the largest hole in your wall as It's as big and powerful as the 1.5HP of other brands. It is also one of the most efficient thanks to its DC fan motor! Officially no longer available from TCL but is still available as a rebadged unit from Union Appliances.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.3
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 660 x 430 x 680


    Known variants: UNION UGAIR-9001-INV

    8. Hitachi RA-10HV <click here for link> This is the single-blow successor of the first WT Inverter aircon that was introduced in the country. It retains the chassis and layout of the original but adopts a single side discharge vent and loses the heating function to bring down costs. Dual DC fans, dry mode, and unique aesthetics highlight this unit. Efficiency ratings are top notch but be warned that there have been owners who have reported costly front panel PCB failures due to defective design.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.5
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 600 x 410 x 795



    9. Hitachi RA-10HVQ <click here for link> This is Hitachi's uber compact unit that still has more impressive numbers than the LG compact. Small size and unique metallic blue finish highlight this unit. This has been verified to be a single fan unit. <click here for link> Be warned however that there have been owners who reported having multiple issues that run up costs to the tens of thousands primarily due to a poorly-designed front panel. BTW, it now also has a 0.75hp sibling in case your room is a bit on the tiny side.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.3
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 470 x 340 x 600



    10. Hitachi RA-10HSV <click here for link> Hitachi intends to further solidify their hold on the compact segment by releasing the cheaper HSV variant. It is another single fan unit to cut costs, and even has 0.60HP and 0.75HP capacities for tiny rooms. But please AVOID AT ALL COSTS as not only it is susceptible to the front panel PCB failing prematurely, it operates like a conventional aircon resulting in high electric bills! Watch this video if you don't believe me! <click here for link>
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.9
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 470 x 340 x 600



    11. Fujiair FWI-29CSI <click here for link> Another entry in the local market is this unknown Japanese brand which makes its units in Taiwan, Thailand and China. This was originally rebadged by Fujidenzo in 2014 as the handsome IWAR-2910 (P32k!) but replaced later on by the Gree oem IWAR-90 (27k!) to be more competitive. BTW, they also have a 0.75hp unit but it uses the same chassis and is a bit pricey. It's good but expect parts to be costly. Get it if you can get one being sold for less than 28k!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.4
    Refrigerant - R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 400 x 630


    Known variant: FUJIDENZO IWAR-2910 <click here for link>

    12. Midea FP-51ARA010HEIV-N4 <click here for link> The Chinese OEM of Concepcion Industries flexes their muscle with this updated no-frills unit. Very efficient yet very affordable, it actually presents a very attractive proposition for any buyer. It's also the second most rebadged unit in the local market.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.0
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 400 x 670


    Known variants: Hyundai HAC-W10INV-A; Matrix MX-INV1100; American Home AHAC-WINV1000M; XTREME XACWT10i; Crowne Aire 1hp; York YWJF09ZT–MBORX; Dowell ACW-2i-1000RT; IDEC 1hp Inverter WT;

    13. Carrier Compact Inverter WCARH009EEVC2 <click here for link> The previous model is reborn as a compact unit in order to compete against other brands! Remember that it's basically a Midea unit inside but is sold at a much higher price!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.05
    Refrigerant - R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 470x 330 x 596



    14. Condura WCONH09EEVI <click here for link> The stripped down version of the Carrier unit is a no-frills unit that practically looks the same. Good thing they didn't remove the ESP! Sadly, it's still on the expensive side when compared to the other units available in the local market.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.36 (converted from 13.3 SEER)
    Refrigerant - R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 375 x 637



    15. Carrier Aura WCARJ009EEV <click here for link> Concepcion Industries refreshes their trusty unit by changing the face but keeps everything else. Still with 8-in-1 Premium Filter, Sleep Mode, Dry Mode, Econo mode, and even throws in their patented ESP (energy-saving plug) for good measure! Clearly just a cosmetic change from the previous model as almost nothing has changed. Bad value for the price as the Condura sibling is actually cheaper but is the same aircon.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.8
    Refrigerant - R410a
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 375 x 647



    16. Midea U FP-51ARA010HEIV-U5 <click here for link> Midea pulls a rabbit out of the hat and finally brings the Midea U to our shores! Compact size, beautiful and unique aesthetics, wifi connectivity, and quiet operation thanks to its unique U-shaped chassis and dual fans make this unit a really interesting buy. You can still use it for regular WT aircon provisions but it really shines for houses with windows that slide up and down.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.88
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 490 x 345 x 560


    Known variants: Condura Primea 1hp

    17. Gree GJ09-6DR <click here for link> Gree finally releases their own compact full-DC window-type unit. Unlike the Kolin unit, it doesn't have wifi connectivity and no 0.75hp capacity for tiny rooms. Furthermore it is available in capacities all the way to 2.5hp! It's much cheaper than the Kolin unit for only 23k in select dealers.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.56
    Refrigerant - R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 450 x 350 x 640


    Known variants:
    (w/ wifi) Kolin Quad KAG-100WCINV; Tosot TJC09VRU;
    (no wifi) Fujidenzo IWAR100GC; Fabriano FWE09GWIC; Everest ETIV10CFWD/G;

    18. Panasonic CW-U921VPH / CW-U923VPH <click here for link> Panasonic isn't about to be outdone by the rivals and comes out with a compact single fan full-DC compact unit to compete! This is a 0.9hp unit mainly intended to compete with compact offerings from rivals. Its dimensions allow it to fit in most provisions for conventional units.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 450 x 346 x 640



    19. Panasonic CW-U1021VPH <click here for link> Panasonic intends to compete with budget rivals and comes out with a single fan full-DC standard unit to compete! They also took out the NanoE to further cut costs down just so they can compete at a lower price range! Hmm.. I wonder if it has an autofan speed setting?
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.2
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 346 x 655



    20. TCL TAC-09CWI/UJE <click here for link> TCL puts out a unit that's clearly in direct competition with the Midea U and the upcoming Gree Aoky. It's a wide yet compact unit, uses dual fans, and it also has wifi connectivity. But is prolly limited to on/off and operation control and no power monitoring. Oh and it doesn't use a slide out chassis which will make it a bit hard to clean.. Last bit: no anodized coating so this is NOT recommended for seaside and riverside homes.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.7
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 584 x 355 x 478


    Known variants: Astron INV-W100

    21. Koppel KV09WR-ARF31A <click here for link> Koppel finally caves and puts out a compact unit that is likely based off the Gree GJ-09-6DR but with a different grille, control panel, and cooling routine. The entire line is clearly based off the Gree units but sold at higher prices! Dunno how Koppel has tweaked the Gree units to perform better and warrant such high SRP?!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.4
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 450 x 350 x 675



    22. Haier HW-10VCQ32 <click here for link> Haier finally puts out an inverter WT for the PHL market!! I am not surprised that it's a compact unit as more and more homes have limited space for WT provision. And at only 20k, it's priced very attractively as it is a single fan unit with no air swing. Both evaporator and condenser radiators are anodized in blue. No WIFI though.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.6
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 521 x 353 x 505



    23. Hisense C1A-F <click here for link> Erstwhile Haier rival Hisense finally puts out an inverter WT for the PHL market!! A joint-project with Midea, this is similar to a another unit in this roundup. It's another compact unit and at only 20k, it's priced very attractively as it is a single fan unit with no air swing much like its top discharge rivals. Only the evaporator is anodized in gold and the chassis does not use a pull-out housing. The PHL unit likely won't feature heating and no WIFI connectivity either as seen in the Beko rebadged unit. EER is dismal but the 2 years warranty was a surprise!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 10.46
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 470x 335 x 480


    Known variants: Beko BPVOW-090; Eurotek EAC2310W; Fabriano FWE09HWIC32

    24. Everest ETIV10CFWTD <click here for link> Local brand Everest is the first to come out with this unit from Midea-Hisense. The chassis is similar to the Hisense C1A-F, but the front looks very much like a Midea U because of the air discharge flap. Both Midea and Hisense have not released this unit under their own brand locally, but they will likely do so eventually. It's not very compact as it needs to be big to be efficient. I have yet to see one in person but it is likely a single fan unit.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.2
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 560 x 345 x 490



    25. Carrier Veza WCAR009VV-W <click here for link> Carrier is not to be outdone by Midea's U and comes out with its own unit that is adapted to the tall and narrow casement windows that are often used in the PHL. It's definitely unique once you see it! The only catch? Efficiency sux big time because it's basically a portable aircon modified to fit in your window! They even go through a lot of effort not to show much technical data on their webpage because they know it's a hard sell! Sold elsewhere as the TECO Vertical Skinny, it will jut out from the window to annoy any homeowner.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 10.6 (converted from 12.2 SEER)
    Refrigerant – R32
    Size (WxHxD) - 415 x 820 x 335



    Reminder: Be aware that upgrading from a conventional unit to an inverter unit can be a bit of a challenge. You will still need to add some allowance to your installation hole as these units are bigger and need to be installed at a backward 5deg tilt to allow for good drainage. Also, if your old aircon didn't need a support bracket, these units need one as they can be very long and heavy. Lastly, if your room doesn’t have an aircon outlet with a dedicated breaker at the distribution panel, you will most likely need to have an isolation breaker and supply line installed by a competent electrician.

    _*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*

    Split-type aircons have gone a long way from the chunky cooling boxes that just cooled your room. Today's basic units have smart features that window-types can only wish they could offer. Some standard features are: Econo Mode, Sleep Mode, Dry Mode, Auto mode, Timer modes, Soft Startup, and even smart protections that keeps it running for a short while after you turn it off.

    The first part was a mini-roundup of window-types to help potential buyers.. This part is for split-type units. Again, this is by no means an authoritative guide, so please take it with a grain of salt.. The following is my roundup of the BASIC / STANDARD 1HP split-type inverters that are currently available in the market. If you're looking for premium models, this is not the roundup for you.. (in no particular order!)

    1. Mitsubishi SRK10YN-S / SRC10YN-S <click here for link> Mitsubishi is crawling back into the RAC (Residential Air Conditioner) market with designs that your tito would surely fawn over. They might not be much to look at, but you can be sure that they will get the job done.
    EER (KJ/HW) – 12.7
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features – It’s a Japanese brand

    2. Gree G-W09-3DR <click here for link> Gree split-type units are also some of the most commonly-rebadged units on the local market. Gree-branded units don't come cheap as these are the current-generation units while rebadged units are typically 1 generation older. Rebadged Gree Livo units can be as cheap as 21k!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.55
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - relatively cheap;

    3. Panasonic Aero Standard CS-PU9WKQ <click here for link> It's not pretty. It's not cheap for a basic unit. But it sure is efficient at cooling your room with such a high EER! No longer features NanoE but can now connect wirelessly with the optional WLAN adapter module.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.64
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - Optional wifi connectivity

    4. LG HSN09ISS <click here for link> LG goes on the offensive with their white plastic box. Armed with an efficient compressor, this highly understated unit is a market favorite thanks to its competitive pricing. Be warned however that LG units can be prone to minor problems that can be annoying but fixable. You're almost sure to call in a service technician at some point of its service life. Good thing that LG parts are comparatively cheaper and won't really cost too much to repair.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.6
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - Diagonal squirrel fan; Dual-rotary compressor; 10-years compressor warranty

    5. Daikin D-Smart FTKQ25TVM <click here for link> This is the basic D-Smart unit that will allow you to experience what it's like to own a Daikin. It's not smart like Nicola Tesla, but smart enough to answer your cooling needs without you worrying about anything else. Pricey but worth it!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.72
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 0.75HP variant; Wide operating voltage; 3-years PCB warranty; optional wifi connectivity

    6. Daikin D-Smart Queen FTKC25TVM <click here for link> This is the standard D-Smart unit that was previously being sold as a premium unit but has since been re-classed to gain more market share. What it lacks in pomp it more than makes up for in quality and durability!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.5
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 0.75HP variant; Wide operating voltage; 3-years PCB warranty; optional wifi connectivity

    7. Midea FP-53AST010KEIV-W4 / FP-53AST010KEIV-B4 <click here for link> The Chinese OEM of Concepcion Industries shows off their basic inverter unit with its high EER and 2 color choices. They're not cheap but aftersales support is very strong thanks to local partner Concepcion Industries.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.1
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - Available in Genesis White and Mirror Black (more expensive but internally the same)

    8. Samsung Standard Inverter AR09TYHYEWKNTC <click here for link> Samsung's basic inverter unit is as basic as they come. Cheap price with low efficiency. Their aluminum Durafin evaporator comes standard but be aware that once it springs a leak, it can't be repaired and will need to be replaced outright.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 10.8
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 10-years compressor warranty; Voltage guard

    9. Daikin D-Smart Lite FTKF25BVL <click here for link> The pretentious Daikin Prince is gone and this is his bastard son. Sadly, EER is just too low to be attractive given that it is in fact from Daikin. Expect it to be cheaper than most Daikin offerings but don't expect much savings from it. BTW, don't expect it to be covered by the 3-year pcb warranty. Buy at your own risk..
    EER (KJ/HW) - 10.2
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 0.75HP variant; cheapest Daikin

    10. Condura Inverter 2 FP-53KSV009313 <click here for link> Budget brand Condura touts this as proudly made (assembled?) by Filipinos.. though most probably with Chinese-made Midea components.. It has good figures but is still more expensive than other budget offerings despite being locally made. Build quality is okay but the price is just a buzz-kill.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.1
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - Silver Ion filter; Made by Filipinos for Filipinos!

    11. Hitachi Royal RAS-10HTP <click here for link> Philippine assembled Hitachi is touted as a "Full DC" unit and is likely so as evidenced by the unit's stellar EER rating. Sadly it's not as attractive as their window-type aircon but at least it doesn't look like something that came out of a Chinese factory.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.8
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - 0.75HP variant

    12. Carrier Alpha 53GCVBE013-303P <click here for link> Carrier's basic unit isn't so bad. Carrier drops the 1hp unit and instead sells a marked down 1.5hp in its place! At 33k, it is now actually competitive! And if you factor in their nationwide network of service centers, owning one can be a worry free experience!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.3
    Refrigerant - R32
    Notable features - Double clean system

    13. Carrier Crystal 2 FP-53GCVBS010-303P <click here for link> The old Crystal unit looked like an Alpha fitted with a 3k premium filter. So they came out with a chunkier looking unit but with a lower price tag than the outgoing model. This is a basic unit that is specifically marketed for families with sensitive babies or for people that have immuno-compromised respiratory systems.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.9
    Refrigerant - R32
    Notable features - Double clean system; Premium air filter

    14. Haier HSU-10TSV13(DC)-SC <click here for link> Haier is better known in the PHL for cheap TV's and Refrigerators. Availability has improved but still expect to have problems later on with parts and service as there are still probably few authorized service centers at this time.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.5
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - All copper pipes, high EER

    15. Kolin Aptus KSM-IW10-9L1M <click here for link> Clearly a rebadged Midea but with WIFI control built-in, the ionizer that is usually found on premium units is a smart move for the brand. Not bad actually. It just might cost a pretty penny to have it installed though as they rarely come with free installation.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.6
    Refrigerant - R410a
    Notable features - Ionizer, WIFI

    16. Gree G-W09-3DR-DC <click here for link> Gree finally releases a full-DC unit for the standard market and it seems to be the 3rd-generation Livo in other markets. Understated looks but the specs on this unit are something to marvel at! It uses R32 refrigerant and has an outdoor unit that you only see used by premium units! A real monster! Oh and at around 30k (+installation) at select dealers, this is a very sweet unit!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 14.8
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - Largest outdoor unit; Highest EER

    17. AUX F-Series / AUFIT FM-Series <click here for link> <click here for link> Newcomer from China is out to prove themselves in the local market. The F-Series are their basic models and can either be AUX or AUFIT but is basically the same banana. Early adopter feedback is positive so far and did I mention that their units supposedly come with a 5-year warranty that includes the PCB?! Very enticing but the EER is just too low to get me on board..
    EER (KJ/HW) - 10.8
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 5-year warranty

    18. Hisense AS-09TR2S <click here for link> This brand is better known for their affordable TV's but is quite a big company in China where it came from. This unit is rather affordable as there was a cash buyer who paid just 21.2k for his unit. Still very limited availability unlike their TV's.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.5
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - none

    19. Whirlpool SIA90B <click here for link> American appliance brand Whirlpool is down to pasting their brand on Chinese oem appliances. This is likely a rebadged Hisense unit after a thorough google search of their remote. Dunno about parts availability as there might not be that many authorized service centers outside of Metro Manila. And typical of Whirlpool-branded units, this isn't cheap at 31.5k cash.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.09
    Refrigerant - R410a
    Notable features - 1w standby power; 3-in-1 filter

    20. Chigo Pura CHG-S156I100A <click here for link> Instead of the standard white boxes, Chigo sells some rather curvy evaporator units but is not that widely available. They're okay as Chigo is actually one of the big aircon manufacturers in China.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.95
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features -High density Vitamin C filter

    21. Sharp Basic Inverter AH-XP10ZF <click here for link> This must be the cheapest Japanese-branded aircon in this roundup. It comes with an awesome 14degree temp operation. Sharp isn't known for excellent aircons in the PHL, but in Japan it's one of the most trusted appliance brands.
    EER (KJ/HW) - no data
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 0.5ºC Temperature Increments

    22. TCL TAC-09CSA/KEI/SMI <click here for link> This is probably the second cheapest inverter split-type aircon in the local market as you can find online sellers of this unit for only 21k with installation! ! I think it's slightly better in quality than Samsung's basic unit, but with few authorized service centers outside the big cities, buyers in smaller cities might have some trouble later on getting parts and service. Some sellers claim this is a full-DC unit and it has been verified as such. It's just not as efficient as the other full-DC units out there but good nonetheless.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.6
    Refrigerant – R32 (updated units)
    Notable features - Wide operational voltage; Gold Anodized fins

    23. TCL Smart T-Pro TAC-09CSA/MEI <click here for link> TCL finally differentiates the MEI variant as their standard unit. It's still basically the same as their basic unit but with some added bells and whistles. Gentle breeze mode and wi-fi connectivity make an already attractive unit even more value-packed.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.6
    Refrigerant – R32 (updated units)
    Notable features - Wide operational voltage; Gold Anodized fins, Wi-fi connectivity

    24. Koppel Super Inverter KV09WM-ARF21C2 <click here for link> Homegrown aircon manufacturer Koppel doesn't sell a premium unit for the residential market and is more visible in the commercial market. Their filter seems to be the same as the one on the Chigo Pura and is priced similarly too at 28.5k! The condenser unit grill however tells me that this is a rebadged Midea unit. I came across an owner who swears that this aircon is absolute rubbish. Be warned.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - Hydrophyllic fins; High Density Vitamin C filter

    25. Fujiair FS-25L2A-1C <click here for link> Japanese brand Fujiair is rather hard to come by as it is quietly being sold online by only 1 HVAC company. <click here for link> Similarly hard to find as their window-type unit, this aircon will be a gamble for anybody outside of Metro Manila to buy. It's not cheap, and the only user feedback I got about it was that they're just so-so in performance.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.2
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - none

    26. AUX J-Series ASW-09A2 JADI <click here for link> Outgoing J-series units are still a decent choice. Early adopter feedback is positive so far and did I mention that their units supposedly come with a 5-year warranty that includes the PCB?! Very enticing! Pricey but looks okay so far.. Hmm. The J-Smart variant comes with WIFI control.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.4
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - 5-years warranty on parts; 10-years warranty on compressor

    27. Panasonic Aero Deluxe CS-XPU9WKQ <click here for link> It's still looks plain but don't let its understated looks fool you. It's not cheap for a standard unit but it sure is efficient at cooling your room thanks to PAM technology. This deluxe model gets you NanoE for better air quality but with no increase in efficiency. Now comes with optional wifi connectivity. (finally!)
    EER (KJ/HW) - 13.64
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - NanoE technology; optional wifi connectivity

    28. OX Gold Fin OX-W09-PVF <click here for link> The condenser unit looks very much like a Midea while the evaporator unit looks like an old model Midea. It's probably a rebadged Midea. Highly likely that OX Philippines has no relation with OX in China. Their floor-mounted unit seems to be a rebadged Chigo.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 12.6
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - 2-year PCB & fan motor warranty

    29. Sharp Standard Inverter AH-XP10WF <click here for link> This must be the cheapest Japanese-branded aircon in this roundup. It comes with an awesome 14degree temp operation and an ionizer. Sharp isn't known for excellent aircons in the PHL, but in Japan it's one of the most trusted appliance brands.
    EER (KJ/HW) - no data
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 0.5ºC Temperature Increments, Ionizer

    30. Koppel Full DC KV09WM-ARF31 <click here for link> Koppel finally refreshes their lineup with the release of a full-DC unit . But the size of the outdoor unit makes me wonder if their declared EER is accurate or not.. No info yet as to the real OEM but the specs on paper are outstanding!
    EER (KJ/HW) - 14.2
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - Follow Me, Ionizer

    31. AUX Q-Series / AUFIT QF-Series <click here for link> <click here for link> This is the likely successor to the outgoing J-series units. Featuring updated looks and R32 refrigerant, it looks every bit underwhelming as their F-series units. The data on their site is very confusing but I assume that the Q-series units will be their standard units moving forward.
    EER (KJ/HW) - ???
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - 5-years warranty on parts; 10-years warranty on compressor

    32. Hitachi Hi-Luxe RAS-28JK <click here for link> Hitachi finally releases a unit that is more pleasing to the eyes. While the Royal series units were all business, the Hi-Luxe units have a chic touch. Before I forget, check out the EER on this thing! That outdoor unit is just HUGE! Sadly though, it still uses R410a refrigerant. I sure hope they'll update it to R32 eventually.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 18
    Refrigerant – R410a
    Notable features - 5-years warranty on parts; 10-years warranty on compressor

    33. Midea Celest FP-53AST010KEIV-F4 <click here for link> Midea is really keen on making their presence known locally and this unit is their latest offering. Surprisingly cheap and efficient, I expect this basic unit to be like the units before it - slow to respond to remote input, and with poor temperature regulation especially in eco mode.
    EER (KJ/HW) - 11.5
    Refrigerant – R32
    Notable features - cheap for a Midea

    What about the other brands like IDEC, Imarflex, Qube, Everest, Fujidenzo, MABE, American Home, Unitech, Tosot, Matrix, Homemate, Pensonic, Homemate, etc.? They're all just pasting their brand names onto oem units from the Chinese makes. Are they any good? They're not bad actually. Remember that China has been manufacturing most of the world's equipment for the past two decades and product quality has steadily risen since. Now if you really want to find out the oem of the rebadged unit in question, all you have to do is to search the internet for what brand has a matching remote control. Another technique would be to scour the archives of Chinese manufacturers and have a look at the units that they sold in the past years as rebadged units are often from previous product generation of those manufacturers.

    Reminder: Be aware that buying a split-type aircon costs more than just the sticker price. Some units come with “free installation” while many do not. Also, be prepared to shell out more cash for the: 1. delivery charge; 2. supply wire; 3. isolation breaker; 4. outdoor unit mounting bracket; 5. excess copper tubing; 6. PVC drain pipe; 7. Masonry works. Make sure to ask the seller as to what are included and what are not. =)


    As of February 21, 2024


    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Feb 20 2024, 04:07 PM
  • Reserved for AIRCON FAQs. Please PM me your FAQ suggestions!


    Before I run through some of the most common questions we have gotten, please READ YOUR MANUAL first if you have already purchased a unit. Your user manual will often have answers to most of the questions in this FAQ anyways. But if you haven't bought a unit yet and are still researching, read thru the evolving FAQ below and hopefully we can help you out..

    Q1: Totoo po bang mare-realize lang yung savings ng inverter aircon kapag 8 hours or more mo itong ginagamit?

    A: Not true. You reap the savings the moment your unit hits the target temp and the compressor ramps down. If your unit is amply sized for the room and insulation is good, you are set to save at least 40% of your electricity consumption when compared to using a conventional aircon. The savings just get bigger and bigger the longer you use your inverter aircon.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q2: How do I know what capacity of aircon I will need for my room?

    A: Start by measuring the size of your room (length x width) to get the size in square meters. Once you have this, you can start out with with the Daikin heat load calculator that's found in their site. It's very intuitive and simple that anybody can use it. Tip: count each heat-generating appliance as a person. <click here for link> Another common resource is the infographic form Abenson Appliances that gives you a basic idea of what aircon capacity to get vis-a-vis your room size.. (Warning: it is outdated and only applies to conventional aircons!)



    However, based on our real-world use of inverter aircons and the rising global temperatures, the above recommendations have become inaccurate. So we sort of have come up with our own loose approximation of aircon capacity for your intended space..

    Intended Area ===== Aircon Capacity
    5-7 sqm =========== 0.75 HP
    5-12 sqm ========== 1.0 HP
    10-18 sqm ========= 1.5 HP
    15-25 sqm ========= 2.0 HP
    20-35 sqm ========= 2.5 HP / 1.5TR
    30-40 sqm ========= 3.0 HP / 2TR
    35-45 sqm ========= 4.0 HP / 3TR
    45 sqm up ========= call for a site survey


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    Q3: Do I get a split type or a window type?

    A: This is one of the most common question out there for first-time buyers. And the basic answer is "depends on 1. your installation space; 2. your requirement for silence; and 3. your budget"

    Some rooms already have existing holes for a window-type aircon. Some condos forbid you from boring a hole in the wall for a split-type aircon. Some rooms don't have enough clearance for a window-type aircon. No matter the case, your room will tend to favor window-type over split-type and vice versa. Get the one that will be easier for you. What if either one is actually an option? Then the next 2 factors should help you decide..

    If you require utter silence in your room, then only a split-type aircon will do as they can be super quiet thanks to the compressor and condenser fan being located outside. But if you only want cooling and don't mind the occasional whir, then a window-type inverter can easily fit the bill. Be aware that WT units are no longer the same as the old (a.k.a.: LOUD & INEFFICIENT) conventional units that can actually jolt you awake when the compressor kicks in at 100%. You'd be surprised at how quiet they can be. But of course, they will never be as quiet as a split-type unit. So if you are a very light sleeper, or work as a sound engineer who needs to hear every breath of the actors, be ready to spend for a split-type unit.

    In the end, it's your budget that will ultimately decide if both types are on the table. Window-types are generally cheaper and easier to maintain (lower cost of ownership) while Split-types are more expensive by design and cost more to maintain (higher cost of ownership). However split-types have more features that add to it's value as compared to the more basic window-types. If money is not an issue, go for the best that your money can buy! =)

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    Q4: What is "Dry Mode" and is it better than "Cool Mode"?

    A: Dry mode is when your aircon works to wick away the moisture in the air to improve the comfort level in your room. The level of comfort in tropical countries like ours mainly hinges on the 1. temperature, and 2. the relative humidity <click here for link>. In dry mode, your aircon focuses on reducing relative humidity over temperature to provide comfort. It's perfect for rainy days when the temp is low but the humidity is high.

    What about cool mode? It's the default mode for aircon units. Temperature is reduced by active cooling with the benefit of humidity going down as well. But moisture removed is less than in dry mode. This mode is perfect for summer days when both the temperature and humidity are high.

    Will dry mode consume less power than cool mode? There is no proof to this claim as prevailing weather conditions can easily favor one mode over the other.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q5: Pare-pareho lang ba ang dry mode ng mga aircon?

    A: No. Some will work in a preset way and just remove moisture from the air until you switch it back to cool mode. Some units will allow you to adjust the temp while still wicking away the moisture from the air. Some very intelligent units in "full auto" mode will switch operation modes and fan speeds as needed to ensure user comfort at all times.

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    Q6: What is the ideal setting to maximize cooling while also maximizing power savings?

    A: We usually suggest 25-28 degrees for the temperature range with the fan on Auto or F2 in cool mode. This setting emphasizes comfort cooling where most people can comfortably work and not have to wear an additional layer of clothing to keep warm. Compare this to ambient temps of 30-33 degrees, 25-28 is actually quite cool and comfortable. This setting is also present in some user manuals as the recommended operational setting to maximize savings.



    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q7: So how do I check temp and humidity in my room so that I would know when to use dry mode and cool mode?

    A: You can buy a thermometer + hygrometer gadget. They can very cheap (P88) or very expensive (1k+) depending on how much you're willing to spend on one. Be warned that analog ones may need periodic calibration while digital ones will often not last for very long. Nonetheless, it is a gadget worth investing on.

    image from statix






    Oria Big Screen - P300.00 <click here for link>

    Oria Big Screen w/ Backlight - P460.00 <click here for link>

    Analog Thermo + Hygro - P90.0 0 <click here for link>

    HTC Thermo + Hygro + Clock - P125.00 <click here for link>

    Colorful Thermo + Hygro - P230.00 <click here for link>

    Best yet imho - P276.00 <click here for link>
    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q8: Tuwing kailan nililinis ang filter ng aircon?

    A: Please read your manual, it's there. Alright seriously now, you clean it depending on how dusty it is in your place and how often you use your aircon. Most of the time cleaning it once every 2 weeks will suffice but for some places like internet cafes and frontline offices, weekly cleaning is a must.

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    Q9: Tuwing kailan naman ang palinis ng mismong aircon unit?

    A: Depending on how often you use your aircon and how dirty it is in your place, you may need to have it cleaned at least twice a year. For very dusty areas with very high usage, every 4 months to every 3 months.

    But if you're like an OFW who's only home 2 months in a year, having it cleaned once a year is okay.

    Q9.5: How do I know if I need to shorten the cleaning period from the minimum of 6 months?

    A: When you clean the dust filter, take the time to check the condition of the evaporator fins. If they are getting dirty well before you reach 6 months, then you need to switch to evey 4 or 3 months depending on how soon your evaporator fins get dirty.

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    Q10: I'm planning to clean my own aircon, what do I need to invest in?

    A: If you've had enough of watching aircon technicians walking away with your cash after washing your aircon and you're confident that you can do it yourself (DIY), it might be time to invest in some cleaning equipment..

    1. Pressure washer - they can be as expensive as 4k and as cheap as as a spray nozzle gun that you can use with your garden hose if your water tap has strong water pressure. Just be careful when you spray as you can easily bend the aluminum fins!



    2. Cleaning agents - Coil brite, NuBrite, Qwik Brite, Brite Coil, and maybe some Rainbow Brite? There are a lot of cleaning agents to choose from including our favorite Joy dishwashing liquid. Just don't forget to wear gloves and ensure ample ventilation when you use these. Be aware that the stronger your alkali cleaning agent, the thinner your aluminum fins will get over time so do this sparingly over the lifespan of your asset. Best to stick with diluted dishwashing liquid for regular cleaning sessions.



    3. Fin comb - this handsome little bugger should be on your list if you plan to do your own aircon washing. Quite inexpensive but will work wonders for your bent aircon fins!




    4. Aircon cleaning bag - if your aircon is a split type and you need to clean the indoor unit with a pressure washer, you will need one of these so you won't make a mess!




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    Q11: Do I NEED to get a unit that uses R32? Or is it okay to buy a unit that still uses R410a?

    A: R32 is the latest and most environmentally-friendly aircon refrigerant at the moment. It is safer for the atmosphere, is easier to recycle, and consumes 20% less refrigerant for the same amount of cooling than R410a. <click here for link> Does this mean that R32 airons are 20% more ENERGY efficient (EER) than R410a aircons? HELL NO!! They only require less refrigerant but do not make for more energy efficient aircons! It's the compressors, radiator sizes, fan designs, and smart electronics that really make it more energy efficient.




    You get a R32 aircon if you must absolutely save the planet. But if what you need is a cool room and lower electricity bills, then it doesn't matter much at this point whether it uses R32 or R410a.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q12: Do I need to get a "Full DC Inverter Aircon" or an aircon that uses DC fan motors?

    A: DC fans have been long known to be more power efficient than their AC counterparts. They're also quieter and have been known to last a good long time. Unfortunately, they are more expensive because they require permanent magnets and can get even more expensive depending on the speed control method used. <click here for link> While the DC fan motor itself can last a long time, it's usually the AC to DC converter (power supply) that doesn't. If I remember correctly, majority of the aircon PCB issues that are encountered in JDL videos are related to power components failing prematurely. And adding the DC motor into the load further worsens the problem.

    AC fan motors on the other hand consume more power but are very cheap to deploy. Aircons with AC fan motors last longer mainly because their power supply designs are very simple and robust. They don't add to the load of the AC to DC converter of the aircon PCB and work just as well. In the end, it's a question between having a more power efficient aircon, and one that lasts longer.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q13: Bakit parang mas malamig yung conventional aircon ko kaysa sa inverter aircon?

    A: Simple! Conventional aircons always run the compressor at 100% while inverters slowly ramp up to 80% (rarely up to 100%) and slowly ramp down to fan only once they hit the target temp. So syempre super lamig agad (and super noisy!) ang conventional unit as a result pero super taas din ang electric bill mo. If you're rich, you like it very cold, are hard of hearing, and you and don't mind high electric bills go ahead and get yourself a conventional aircon. =)

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q14: Is it a good idea to buy a portable aircon given na inverter na din ang mga lumalabas?

    A: If it is an ABSOLUTE requirement that the aircon is movable, then go ahead and buy one. But from an efficiency standpoint, it would be an absolute waste of money especially since the units sold locally are single hose models. Did you check the EER? Super low right???! Sure it has good cooling capacity but kahit pa sabihin na inverter yan eh don't expect much from it in terms of efficiency. Only the dual hose units have respectable efficiency, while the single hose units are an exercise in futility.

    Oh and don't forget that the HUGE anaconda of a hose will become a trip hazard in your home which you can easily trip over kapag gabi na. A BIG NO from me.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q15: Is it a good idea to buy a multi-split system versus buying multiple separate units?

    A: At the moment, a multi-split system costs a pretty penny to purchase and install. The system is not without its merits. Let's get into the pros and cons of it..

    Pros:
    1. Saves space since you only have 1 condenser unit
    2. Power consumption scales up or down to the number of indoor units running

    Cons:
    1. Once the condenser unit breaks, everybody has no aircon
    2. When a leak happens, everybody has no cooling
    3. Price of a 1:2 system costs more than getting 2 separate units. Even worse for a 1:3 setup.

    Sample costing: 2:1 Kolin Flexmatch vs. 2 Kolin basic units
    2:1 2hp KOLIN KFS-20DAEM-O kit = 63,290 (unit only) <click here for link>
    2 units KOLIN KSM-IW10-6H1M = 55,600 (unit only) <click here for link>

    Unit prices pa lang eh mas mahal na ang multi-split! And you'd be surprised how much more installation cost is. And ang masakit pa, kapag nasira yung special na solenoid valve nya that handles yung multi-split functionality nya, your wallet will bleed!


    Conclusion: NOT WORTH IT.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q16: Is it a good idea to buy an all-in-one unit na wall mounted? <click here for link>

    A: These units are basically a two-hose portable aircon that is mounted on a wall. EER is actually much worse than an inverter mini-split. Non-inverter units can be cheap but expect it to burn a hole in your budget as it is super inefficient especially when compared to inverter units. They're marketed as revolutionary because there is no more outdoor unit but in reality they're just a HUGE waste of money even for inverter types that have come out in Europe. Save your money, you can thank me later.

    But if having an outdoor unit is out of the question and a WT is also not doable, I guess buying one of these would be the only recourse despite their relative inefficiency.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q16: I bought a WT inverter aircon and I want to know if using it in dripless operation would be better?

    Pros:
    1. Better cooling performance as the pooled condensate is splashed by the slinger fan onto the condenser coils and fins during operation - ergo lower electric bills especially during summer.

    Cons:
    1. Pooled water will make your WT heavier and put more strain on your wall bracket
    2. If the unit is not drained prior to a long period of disuse, you end up with algae and biofilm buildup. Regular biannual cleaning is a MUST.
    3. The chassis can develop rust sooner due to the constant water exposure.


    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    Q17: I oversized my aircon but now I am experiencing a sour smell. What's going on?

    A: [Musicgeek] When target temp is set low, the compressor still works though it slows down significantly vs regular sized units - "actively cooling the room" as @Godai terms it. Otherwise, when the target temp is set high, threshold is reached quickly making the compressor to completely stop sooner. Only the fan is left working na lang then prolonged state degrades air circulation triggering mold formation or at least its initial substance that creates the unpleasant sour smell. Read this article for an oversized non inverter but it might explain some of the issues you encounter with a larger than usual inverter AC as well: <click here for link>
    5. Poor Air Quality
    Your AC system has vents that emit air and return vents that absorb air. Since an oversized air conditioner shuts off soon after being turned on, the air inside your home won’t circulate properly. This, in turn, can lead to the formation of mold. If you can see a lot of condensation on your windows, mold growth, or there’s a slight smell of mildew in the air, it might mean that your home has an AC that’s too big.

    Q17.5: What can I do to minimize the sour smell?

    A: Keep your aircon clean. And set the target temperature lower until it operates without the sour smell coming out.

    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on May 04 2023, 04:55 PM
  • Aircon Do's and Don'ts

    1. DO READ YOUR MANUAL. No excuses.

    2. Don't mount your outdoor unit on the hot tin roof or else it will perform very inefficiently and fail prematurely.

    The wrong way..


    Take inspiration from this picture where the owner invested in an insulated awning that protects the outdoor unit from direct sun exposure. Read about it here: <click here for link>

    The right way..



    The same goes for window-types that are exposed to direct sunlight..



    3. Follow your manual's installation guide - WT aircons are supposed to be installed at a downward tilt so that condensate water can pool and drain towards the back of the unit. Installing it perfectly flat will result to a shorter chassis lifespan and molds. In the case of the picture below, the unit is too far inside that not only is it NOT tilted backwards, some of the chassis vent holes are also likely blocked! Not to mention that the unit has become a hazard inside the room!




    4. Do Insulate - keep your room well insulated to ensure efficient cooling at all times.
    - insulate your roof
    - use blackout curtains if possible
    - mirror tint your windows
    - seal air gaps with foam, foam tape, or spray foam (like Ecofoam)
    - install a door skirt if your door has wide gap at the bottom

    5. Rest - allow your aircon some rest time to prolong its life.

    6. Do Preventive Maintenance - follow a strict cleaning regimen to ensure that your aircon is clean and able to perform at tip-top shape. If your space requires 24/7 cooling and cannot afford to stop cooling for whatever reason, then you should invest in a spare unit that will run in turns with your unit so that maintenance can be performed on one unit while the other continues to operate.

    7. DO KEEP YOUR RECEIPTS FOR WARRANTY PURPOSES. And list down the warranty coverage of your aircon so that when something breaks, you know if it's still covered by the warranty. Life hack: Take a photo of you invoice and store it somewhere safe so that you have a backup copy just in case you need it.

    8. Don't use a humidifier if you want to maximize efficiency. Many salespeople will tell you to use a humidifier in an airconditioned room so that your skin won't dry out. But this is not really good for your aircon as it will put on additional burden on it. The only time you will actually consider this is when the RH in your room is so low that your thermo/hygro gadget tells you that the air is too dry. Even an oil burner diffuser is a bad idea.. <click here for link>

    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Apr 05 2021, 10:38 AM
  • Using a generic inverter aircon and you want to know the oem?

    1. Look at the remote and search google for pictures of remotes from the big Chinese manufacturers (Midea, Gree, Haier, Hisense, Chigo, and AUX) to see if your unit's remote matches or looks similar to what they have. Kolin uses Gree (window) and Midea (Split). Imarflex uses Gree (Split). Carrier PH uses Midea. Whirlpool uses Hisense. Matrix uses Midea. Fujidenzo uses Chigo and Gree. Google it and you'd be surprised.

    2. For most Window-type units, look at the touch panel and then google pictures of the touch panel of the units from the big Chinese makes and you'd be surprised to find your aircon's oem. =) They usually change the grilles to throw you off but they rarely change the touch panels.

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.

    Known rebadged versions of the Gree Window-Type Inverter Aircon.. No matter which flavor you choose, they're all 100% pure made by Gree.

    Kolin 1HP Window-type inverter



    Tosot 1HP Window-type inverter



    American Home Window-type inverter



    Imarflex 1HP Window-type inverter



    Sharp 1HP Window-type inverter


    Sharp uses both TCL and Gree for their conventional units..

    Mabe Appliances MEI09VR (1hp)



    Samsung AW09AYHGAWKNTC (1hp)



    Unitech unit pic from kompressor



    Vanilla Gree 1HP Window-type inverter



    All this from a basic Google search of pictures.. =) The grill design may change but the touch panel and remote will show that they are all just rebadged Gree units.


    =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*

    While we're on the topic of Gree window-type aircons, let's include this step-by-step guide by SIVITED on how to replace the fan capacitor in case you encounter the problem of weak blowing air even after getting your aircon cleaned..

    Just sharing for DIYers in this forum who owns GREE OEM window type inverter aircon who encountered weak fan even after aircon cleaning. This is how to change the fan running capacitor.

    Window Type Inverter Unit: MABE MEI09VR bought 2017

    1. Remove the AC from the power outlet.

    2. Remove the front panel.







    3. Remove the screws (3 screws) on the control panel, grounding (1 screw) and the temperature sensor (carefully).




    4. Slowly pull out the panel box.

    Start with the touch panel.



    You'll find the panel box behind the touch panel which you can slowly pull out.



    5. Take note of the electrical connections for future references :)




    6. In the panel, you can find a rectangular shaped capacitor.




    7. Remove the screw and the 2 connectors (brown & red) with pliers.




    8. Test the capacitor (there are lots of videos in YouTube on how to test a capacitor.

    Capacitor rating: 4uF, 450V, 50/60Hz

    9. If it is broken (below rating or no capacitance), change it with a new one. I bought mine for PHP 120 only.



    Black capacitor on the left is the new one. White capacitor on the right is the original capacitor.

    10. Install and screw back the new capacitor.




    11. Reconnect the (+) and (-) connectors (red and brown). Make sure to put back the wiring shield.




    12. Slide the panel box back in then carefully put back the touch panel.




    13. Reverse procedure in step #4 --> step #1.

    14. Test the aircon.

    It will roughly take 30 minutes of your time if you already have a new capacitor available. I hope this will help someone in the future. Cheers!

    Cheers!


    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Jun 03 2021, 02:59 PM
  • Daikin really has one of the best aircon service pages.. <click here for link> All the info you would ever need to keep your precious unit in shape is in their website.

    Panasonic is not far behind with their service center page. <click here for link> There you can quickly find a list of service centers in your area after just a few clicks.

    Their aircons may be a tad expensive, but their support service is top notch. For Mitsubishi Electric however, all you get is a snobbish page that tells you to go back to your unit's dealer for after-sales support. <click here for link>

    Korean giants LG <click here for link>and Samsung <click here for link> both have some iffy pages that offer few choices. You might actually be better off doing a google search for authorized service than going to their pages..

    Online services portal Gawin.ph <click here for link> is actually a viable alternative to a Google search.. But feedback from my nephew who contacted an aircon technician thru this site was bad as prices quoted were very high and the technician was not transparent at all with what the problem was and what needed to be done. Similar services are offered via apps GoodWork.ph, MyKuya and Serbis.ph

    So far the best is still word-of-mouth recommendation from satisfied customers. Much like how Ray & J's has received so many referrals thanks to the many satisfied customers that they have had. =)

    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.

    How to DIY Clean your Window-Type Aircon

    Note: After the initial wash, babanlawan nyo ng tubig na may Joy yung fins and other surfaces to remove oils and grime that may have attached themselves to your aircon's parts. Then rinse off the soapy water with water before proceeding to dry it all off for reassembly.

    How to DIY clean your Split-Type Aircon:

    Note: If your AC uses DC fan motors, don't allow the blower fan blade to spin freely during cleaning as it can generate feedback voltage that can damage your aircon's controller PCB. If you remove the fan motor's connector from the board prior to cleaning, it's okay to allow the fan blade to spin as the feedback voltage will no longer be able to flow back into the system. Now if you don't know if your AC uses AC or DC fan motors, then you're better off not letting the fan blades spin during cleaning. BE WARNED.


    Note: For the outdoor unit, it would be best if you could open it up and remove the fan blade to clean it up from the inside as well.

    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Jul 06 2021, 07:26 PM
  • 4 ways to measure your aircon's consumption..

    1. Clamp meter - no holes, no sockets, just clamp on and measure. You can use it for a lot more than just measuring your aircon's power draw!


    2. Plug-in Wattmeter - just plug it in, plug your appliance to it, and marvel at how much electricity you consume! The only problem is that local aircon outlets are "tandem" socket standard while the gadget plugs into a "parallel" socket which necessitates a universal plug adapter.

    One workaround is to change your aircon socket from the traditional tandem outlet to dual (tandem + parallel) so that your aircon can use this gadget.


    Lazada link: <click here for link> Shopee link: <click here for link>

    This method is best for window-type aircon owners while most split-type aircons would struggle with this gadget as they're usually wired directly to the panel board.



    Here's my Sonoff S31 Smart Plug in action.. <click here for link>


    Please be aware that the S31 is an autovolt product and will flawlessly work in both 120vAC and 220vAC countries.

    3. Inline Wattmeter - If you're an avid DIY-er like some of us here, it won't take you much to install this device into your home. There are even variants that also control the times that a connected appliance can use - giving you more control over your electricity usage. Works for both window-type and split-type installations. Just find a good home electrician to help you out if you find it too daunting a project.


    This can easily handle any aircon as it is rated up to 60A but will require you to use a DIN type breaker and box. <click here for link>

    Here's the sample installation layout in case you're up to the challenge:



    Consider getting a plastic box like this where you can put both the inline wattmeter and the circuit breaker in a single weatherproof box! Neat!


    And if you don't fancy using a DIN-type smart wattmeter, here is a link for the Sonoff Pow R2 which you can safely use for inverter aircons up to 2HP. It's also small enough to fit inside your unit's Nema 3R box! <click here for link>

    For larger capacity units that are 2.5hp to 4TR, Sonoff has come out with the Pow R3 which will require you to buy a 200x200x80 waterproof box and DIN rail.. <click here for link>

    4. Built-in from Appliance - for smart aircons and appliances, wifi connectivity comes standard and all you have to do is connect to it using their mobile app over your home wifi. If your appliance doesn't have it built in, then only the 3 options above are available to you. =)


    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Feb 23 2022, 06:24 PM
  • How to Calculate an AC Circuit Breaker <click here for link>
    Step 1

    Check your air conditioner's wattage in its specification sheet. Write down the maximum wattage it uses. If it doesn't mention wattage, check the SEER rating of your air conditioner and the cooling BTU number. Make sure you use the input BTU and not the output BTU, if both are listed. Divide the input BTU of your air conditioner by the SEER rating to get the amount of watts it requires, and write that down.

    Step 2

    Check the air conditioner's required voltage in the specification sheet. If you don't see a voltage requirement, check the plug on the air conditioner. If you see a normal household plug on it with three straight prongs, assume 120 V of power requirement. If you see a plug with two diagonal prongs and one straight prong under it, assume 240 V of power requirement.

    Step 3

    Divide the wattage number from Step 1 by the voltage number from Step 2. This gives you the amount of amps you need your circuit breaker to resist.

    Of course you'll need to add some allowance on top of the rated amps of your aircon. For conventional WT aircons, it's usually double the rated amps to cover for inrush current. But for inverter AC, a 1.5 multiplier is often more than enough..

    Here's one that is even more detailed and also provides a chart for what supply wire to use as well.. Sizing an AC Circuit Breaker <click here for link>


    =.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=.=

    I have come to the realization that we ought to post our power consumption figures as reference for future buyers.. And even with these few units, its already painting a clear picture that oversizing actually works!

    1. Gree KX-35i - 1.5hp - 20m² - 26°C - 285w - cool mode + AF
    2. Tosot TJC09VRZ - 1hp - 5.25m² - 26°C - 200w - cool mode + AF
    3. UT GWC24VR - 2.5hp - 16m² - 235W - cool mode 26°C
    4. Daikin D-Smart FTKC35QVM - 1.5hp - 11m² - 200W - cool mode 25°C
    5. Daikin D-Smart FTKQ25TVM - 1.0 hp - 13m² - 170-250w (Meralco meter) - cool mode 25°C
    6. LG HSN24APD Deluxe - 2.5hp - 41m² - 300~400w - cool mode 27~28°C (with medium Vornado fan)
    7. Daikin D-Smart FTKQ35TVM - 1.5hp - 17m² - 180W - cool mode 25°C
    8. Hitachi RA-10HV - 1hp - 12m² - 308W - cool mode 25°C
    9. Hitachi RA-10HVQ - 1hp - 12m² - 350~385W - cool mode 25°C
    10. MHI SRK13YN - 1.5hp - 14m² - 230W - cool mode 25°C
    11. MHI SRK71ZR - 3hp - 41m² - 314~487W - cool mode 26°C
    12. Kolin KAG-145RSINV - 1.5hp - 13m² - 288W - cool mode 25-26°C
    13. Kolin KAG-150RSINV - 1.5hp - 18m² - 273W - cool mode 27°C
    14. UniTech GJC12VR - 1.5hp - 10m² - 260W - cool mode 25~26°C
    15. UniTech GJC12VR- 1.5HP - 19m² - 264~278w cool mode 27°C night, 420~515w daytime
    16. Hitachi RA10HVQ - 1.0HP - 9m² - 330~345w cool mode 24°C night
    17. Kolin KAG-150RSINV - 1.5hp - 7m² - 278~286w - Cool mode 24°C night, 380w daytime
    18. Kolin KAG-240RSINV - 2.5HP - 7m² - 275w - Cool mode 22°C
    19. Panasonic CS-XPU12WKQ - 1.5hp - 15m² - 190~220w - cool mode F2 27°C
    20. Daikin FTKC25TVM - 1.0Hp - 9m² - 180w - cool mode 25°C AF
    21. Daikin FTKQ25TVM - 1.0HP - 12m² - 150~180 watts (night) - Cool mode 25°C
    22. LG HS09ISS - 1.0HP - 10m² - 190~210w - Cool mode 25~26°C (+40% energy saving)
    23. Midea FP53ASTO25KEIVE-B5 - 2.5HP - 33~35m² - 24°C - 440~660w -Cool mode, AF (Daytime use - 12pm onwards)
    24. Samsung Standard AR09TYHYE - 1HP - 8m² - 24°C - 190~230w - cool mode AF
    25.a Whirlpool SIA90-IN - 1HP - 8m² - 26°C - 290w - 6th Sense + AF
    25.b Whirlpool SIA90-IN - 1HP - 8m² - 26°C - 188w - Eco + Cool mode + AF
    26. Midea U FP-51ARA015HEIV-U5 - 1.5HP - 12m² - 25°C - 195.83w - Eco + Cool
    27. TCL TAC-12CWI/W - 1.5HP - 17m² - 26°C - 185w - cool mode + AF
    28. Kolin KAG-100WCINV - 1HP - 10.5m² - 27°C - 185w - Cool mode + F1
    29. TCL TAC-12CWI/W - 1.5HP - 10m² - 25.5°C - 146w - cool mode + AF
    30. TCL TAC-12CWI/SM - 1.5HP - 17m² - 24.5°C - 150w - cool mode + AF
    31. Hitachi RA-10HVQ - 1.0HP - 17m² - 23°C - 227w - cool mode + F3
    32. Fujidenzo IWAR100GC - 1.0hp - 11m² - 25°C - 298w - Cool Mode + AF
    33. Union UGAIR-12001-INV - 1.5HP - 15m² - 26°C - 276w - cool mode + AF

    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Apr 17 2023, 10:25 PM
  • how to use a clamp meter

  • Thanks, Godai, for the heads up.

    For Daikin split-type owners, how much is the usual charge for regular cleaning by authorized service centers? We just had our unit cleaned for free under warranty by the dealer that sold it to us.

    Can anyone recommend a service center (Quezon City area) by DM (if it is not allowed to post it on the forum)



    NormanABates
    napa ayos ko na ang Kolin ko. i have to join this FB group para madami choices: Inverter Aircon Technician

    This is what the technician did:

    Technician 1: Nilinis nya aircon. usual na linis using pressurized washer. mga 45mins to 1hr siguro. when we put the unit back, sabi ko same paren, walang effect. He then called a backup and told me to wait for his companion(the main technician).

    after around 30mins, dumating na galing din sa service.

    Technician 2: Sir, ano pinalitan dito dati?
    Me: Fan Capacitor.
    Tech2: Tested it. 4.5v is reading 2.9 only. Sir, mahina na, palitan na natin.
    Me: ok,
    Tech1 and Tech2 went out to look for a 4.5v capacitor. after around 30mins, they came back with a new capacitor, smaller but same capacity na 4.5v

    they put the capacitor and tested it. still the same! sobra hina ng buga. He then removed the top cover, lumakas yung buga! Then put it back, hina nanaman. Thats when he told me, madami na stucked na alikabok sa front radiator.

    Tech2: Sir, linisin ulet namin. Bili ka Liquid Sosa.

    Tech1 and Tech2 cleaned it again using liquid sosa mixed with joy dishwashing liquid. Maayos at halatang di nagmamadali si Tech2. Lahat ng fins, dinadaanan nya mabuti. After around 1 & 1/2 hour, done na sila. I remember yung radiator din pala pinalitan 'daw' nung sinabi kong 2nd na gumawa ng aircon, now i know liquid sosa lang ang katapat.

    Yung hangin nya, abot na sa dulo ng kwarto, noong di pa nalilinis, kahit 1 feet ka lang sa tapat nya, di mo masyado ramdam yung hangin.

    Bale eto ang ginawa: Deep cleaning using Liquid Sosa to remove stucked dirt sa radiator and changed the Fan Capacitor.

    Name ng aircon Technician: Kuya A/C - Aircon Services.

    Fee: 700 cleaning + 1.8k capacitor(3mos warranty) = 2.5k

    -- edited by NormanABates on Mar 09 2020, 02:48 PM


    -- edited by ninjababez on Nov 21 2020, 09:55 AM
  • avid_007 Send Message View User Items on 12 Jul 20 @ 08:45 AM #
    Thanks, Godai, for the heads up.

    For Daikin split-type owners, how much is the usual charge for regular cleaning by authorized service centers? We just had our unit cleaned for free under warranty by the dealer that sold it to us.

    Can anyone recommend a service center (Quezon City area) by DM (if it is not allowed to post it on the forum)?


    1.5K is the norm these days.
    if QC area, you may contact Ray n J's
  • Thanks, Godai, for the heads up.

    For Daikin split-type owners, how much is the usual charge for regular cleaning by authorized service centers? We just had our unit cleaned for free under warranty by the dealer that sold it to us.

    Can anyone recommend a service center (Quezon City area) by DM (if it is not allowed to post it on the forum)?


    P1,200 naman dito sa amin ayon sa nag install sa amin, malayo nga lang sa inyo.
  • Hi, I've decided to get an 1.5 HP (daikin target ko) + 2 exhaust for our 4.5 + 6.5 rooms. Pero concrete po kasi yung wall namin kaya naisip ko mas malinis if sa ceiling ilagay yung exhaust (yung parang may tubo na silver), sa tingin niyo ba mag wowork siya? Sa 4.5sqm/8.3ft height ko sana ilalagay yung ac. And between the 2 exhaust fans, meron bang mas advisable na dapat mas malaki kaysa dun sa isa. Ty
  • KSolomon Send Message View User Items on 12 Jul 20 @ 01:31 PM - User is online #
    Hi, I've decided to get an 1.5 HP (daikin target ko) + 2 exhaust for our 4.5 + 6.5 rooms. Pero concrete po kasi yung wall namin kaya naisip ko mas malinis if sa ceiling ilagay yung exhaust (yung parang may tubo na silver), sa tingin niyo ba mag wowork siya? Sa 4.5sqm/8.3ft height ko sana ilalagay yung ac. And between the 2 exhaust fans, meron bang mas advisable na dapat mas malaki kaysa dun sa isa.


    gawin mo nang identical yun dalawang exhaust fans para balanced ang airflow.

    Pero concrete po kasi yung wall namin kaya naisip ko mas malinis if sa ceiling ilagay yung exhaust (yung parang may tubo na silver), sa tingin niyo ba mag wowork siya?


    ito ba?




    pwede naman sa tingin ko. PERO kailangan mo i-insulate yun tube mismo dahil mainit sa loob ng ceiling. SOP na may insulation ang mga AC ducts. observe mo lang yun mga ducting sa mga buildings.
  • @statix ohh Kala ko insulated na yung mga tubong yun haha any idea paano ko sila I insulate? TY
  • KSolomon Send Message View User Items on 12 Jul 20 @ 02:08 PM - User is online #
    @statix ohh Kala ko insulated na yung mga tubong yun haha any idea paano ko sila I insulate?


    yan kagaya ng nasa picture ko hindi pa sya insulated. pero wala pa yata ako nakikita na insulated na. babalutin mo lang ng insulation material yun tubo. tho medyo tricky lang yan i-insulate sa tingin ko kasi may kalambutan yun structure design nya.
    pwede siguro hanap ka ng pinaka manipis na foam insulator gaya nito:





    or magpa fabricate ka na lang sa mga latero ng ducting made of thin G.I sheets. tutal tawiran lang naman sa wall halos ang distance nyan. but again, insulate mo pa rin yun GI sheet pero mas madali lagyan yan dahil mas solid yun structure. rugby lang ang katapat pagdikit nung foam sa GI.
  • Regarding vents, may bilihan ng aircon parts etc. sa Cubao sa may paanan ng Aurora flyover. Lahat ng sukat ng vent pati ducting material and insulation meron doon. <click here for link>

    MRV Refrigeration and Air Conditioning - +63287214097
    Dhon Lawrence Refrigeration and Air Condiitoning - +63234144879

    Here's a pic of my vents that I bought for our house in Bulacan



    Here's a pic of the vents installed in our house:



    -- edited by Godai_Yusaku on Mar 30 2021, 08:55 AM
  • Godai_Yusaku [TS] Send Message View User Items on 12 Jul 20 @ 04:19 PM #
    Regarding vents, may bilihan ng aircon parts etc. sa Cubao sa may paanan ng Aurora flyover. Lahat ng sukat ng vent pati ducting material and insulation meron doon.


    ayun, meron pala mabibilihan ng ducting materials. try mo doon King Solomon ;)
    if i were you, duct system na gagawin ko. hindi pa compromised ang privacy compared sa rekta ang exhaust fans sa wall.
  • @statix can you give me a reference or general idea sa duct system? Hindi naman siguro yung centralized na aircon kagaya sa mga mall tinutukoy mo no? Hahaha

    Sana lang din may mabilhan ako ng mga gamit na need ko sa hardware dito sa amin, taga cavite pa ko eh
  • OT na yan duct system sa topic ng dc inverter aircon. Gawa na lang ng bago thread
  • Hi mga sir question lang,anong window type inverter aircon ang ma-suggest nyo sir na matibay at walang problema pagdating sa parts kapag under warranty? Meron kse akong 3 inverter LG split type na aircon,2 nasira within 2years yun outdoor compressor kse yun coil made of aluminium instead of copper kya daw mabilis masira. Ang problema yun LG factory mismo pinapa hintay ka ng 2-4months bago may replacement part kahit na under warranty ka,kaya parang ayaw ko na mag LG. Thanks sa mga sasagot!
  • @adventure
    OT na yan duct system sa topic ng dc inverter aircon. Gawa na lang ng bago thread

    No need sir. Aircon as per application can be ducted or ductless. Most home aircon are ductless but depending on the situation, ducting is always on the table.

    @myke

    Totoo yan about LG. Yan mismo ang nabanggit sa akin ng technician na dapat hanapin yung naka-copper tubes and hindi naka-aluminum particularly sa outdoor unit. That is usually made worse if you live close to the sea, or to an estuary.

    Ang sure akong copper ay Panasonic and Gree. I suggest you go thru yung units mentioned sa taas to see if may info sa links kung ano ang coil material nila.
  • Myke Send Message View User Items on 13 Jul 20 @ 01:08 AM #
    Hi mga sir question lang,anong window type inverter aircon ang ma-suggest nyo sir na matibay at walang problema pagdating sa parts kapag under warranty? Meron kse akong 3 inverter LG split type na aircon,2 nasira within 2years yun outdoor compressor kse yun coil made of aluminium instead of copper kya daw mabilis masira. Ang problema yun LG factory mismo pinapa hintay ka ng 2-4months bago may replacement part kahit na under warranty ka,kaya parang ayaw ko na mag LG.


    hmmm,,,, in the span of 2 years. just like what sir godai pointed out at curious lang ako,,, does your house/building located near the ocean or creek?
  • Been doing some monitoring since I got the sonoff installed. So far, 15 hours yielded me 4.1kwh, 27 degree setting, 1.5HP WT inverter for 18sqm with an insulated ceiling. Jalousies pa ang windows so not very well sealed. Weather condition makulimlim to rainy.

    Under warm conditions more or less feeling ko magiging hourly average nito is almost 400wh based sa clamp meter readings ko back then. Puydi na rin.
  • Been doing some monitoring since I got the sonoff installed. So far, 15 hours yielded me 4.1kwh, 27 degree setting, 1.5HP WT inverter for 18sqm with an insulated ceiling. Jalousies pa ang windows so not very well sealed. Weather condition makulimlim to rainy.

    Under warm conditions more or less feeling ko magiging hourly average nito is almost 400wh based sa clamp meter readings ko back then. Puydi na rin.


    @sir kompressor wow pwedeng pwede na yan, super tipid na nyan
  • Myke Send Message View User Items on 13 Jul 20 @ 01:08 AM #
    Hi mga sir question lang,anong window type inverter aircon ang ma-suggest nyo sir na matibay at walang problema pagdating sa parts kapag under warranty? Meron kse akong 3 inverter LG split type na aircon,2 nasira within 2years yun outdoor compressor kse yun coil made of aluminium instead of copper kya daw mabilis masira. Ang problema yun LG factory mismo pinapa hintay ka ng 2-4months bago may replacement part kahit na under warranty ka,kaya parang ayaw ko na mag LG.


    hmmm,,,, in the span of 2 years. just like what sir godai pointed out at curious lang ako,,, does your house/building located near the ocean or creek?

    Yun isa sir near sa creek yun isa hindi naman. Problema ko lang yun pag claim ng warranty kse sobrang tagal bago mag replace. Mahirap office kse yun hindi pwede mag hintay ng 3-4months para sa parts.
  • Update on the standby power draw: I compared the sonoff readings vs the clamp meter readings which was the one that bothered me awhile back. They read the same current (0.15A) pero sa power draw, the sonoff indicates a standby power of less 4-5 watts for the Hitachi while 2-3 watts for the Gree OEM's. Weird lang kasi 0.15 amps should be aroind 25 watts but I guess resistance may also come into play?

    At least ok na ako sa 3-5 watts standby average. Liveable na compared sa initial scare ko na 25 watts pataas.


  • hi guys ito pala ang specs ng aircon namin. we have the 1hp and 2hp. tanong ko lang sana yun ba nakalagay dyan na power input is the same dun sa madalas ko mabasa na power consumption? and also ano ba dyan yung maximum wattage ng power gagamitin ni ac pag bagong on then pag maintaining nalang ano yun minimum na gagamitin nya na wattage for 1hp and 2hp variant. ngayon palang pasensya na ha aminado ako noob ako sa technical side ng mga ganito kasi nga naman panlalaki kadalasan, but im willing to learn. thank you
  • @kompressor
    At least ok na ako sa 3-5 watts standby average. Liveable na compared sa initial scare ko na 25 watts pataas.


  • Rated power input is the average power draw at full load. So based dun sa previous post mo na nag average ka ng 2kw na hourly rate, tumatakbo malamang sa 1960 watts yung unit most of the time during that period. Yung remaining is malamang maintaining draw ng ref and standby power ng mga appliances na naka off.

    Your 2hp unit shows a minimum of 220 watt power draw pero malamang sa alamang it achieves that figure at the slowest allowable fan and compressor speeds. My window type achieves that at 260 watts. Anything lower than that sa actual readings means fan na lang ang remaining power draw which can happen on very ideal conditions.

    So nakita ko yung fine print ng isang ad regarding the P1.53php na hourly rate. It was done daw in lab conditions so it has to be a very small and tightly insulated room. Possible nga ang 18c setting but your room has to have the same dimensions and insulation as their lab environment, which may translate into an empty room as big as probably four refrigerators, very tightly insulated and with no additional heat sources?
  • @godai

    well done with your very comprehensive FAQ.
    seems almost everything covered at wala na yata ako maisip pa kung ano pa maaring idagdag pa.
    so for our folks who are concerned, please take your time to read and you are surely in good set to go.
    and feel free to ask and everybody will try to help and hoping we'll have a healthy discussion along.


    QueenBeee Send Message View User Items on 13 Jul 20 @ 06:06 PM #


    hi guys ito pala ang specs ng aircon namin. we have the 1hp and 2hp. tanong ko lang sana yun ba nakalagay dyan na power input is the same dun sa madalas ko mabasa na power consumption? and also ano ba dyan yung maximum wattage ng power gagamitin ni ac pag bagong on then pag maintaining nalang ano yun minimum na gagamitin nya na wattage for 1hp and 2hp variant. ngayon palang pasensya na ha aminado ako noob ako sa technical side ng mga ganito kasi nga naman panlalaki kadalasan, but im willing to learn.


    yes, power input a.k.a power consumption.
    based sa specs sheet mo;
    @ 1Hp around 770W max
    @ 2Hp around 1,640W max

    but note the maximum power indicated may exceed beyond during start-ups. mag depende iyan sa ambient temps ng room at outdoor. install a dedicated wattmeter para makita mo ang power draw ng AC from start-up hanggang mag maintaining na on the fly.
    btw, no need to apologize, ma'am.
    if us boys can do it, of course yes you can ;)

    -- edited by statix on Jul 13 2020, 09:48 PM