excited ako sa 4000 series pero gusto ko muna makita real gaming performance and performance:watt ratio. Nag eenjoy pa naman ako sa 3080ti ftw3 ko na custom painted ng white sa y60 whaite case satified ako sa kinalabasan
Guess ko, brute force approach na naman ang Nvidia sa RTX 40-series kasi mukhang malakas yung RDNA3 kaya expecting the next gen cards to be power hungrier than the last gen but at the same time, malaki din ang generational performance jump. Perhaps one of the biggest jumps ever in the history of GPUs if the rumors are to be believed.
Perhaps one of the biggest jumps ever in the history of GPUs if the rumors are to be believed.
Disagree, if you compare consoles like ps5/series x who peaks 200W-210W TDP under full load and their last gen versions peaking 170W-180W but the performance gain is around 3x, that is what a more valid generational performance jump. Nvidia need to double check their performance/power ratio kasi di uubra sa ibang bansa yung energy consumption.
Example na lng sa US, ang normal outlet nila dun is 120V. Around 1800W ata daw yung per outlet kung yung setup nya nag coconsume around 1000W alone, big red flag na yun pra sa knila.
Let alone idle temps/consumption tataas din kaya ngaun palang sa mga leaks marame na nagcoconsider lumipat sa kbila na nag oofer na better performance/power ratio.
Disagree, if you compare consoles like ps5/series x who peaks 200W-210W TDP under full load and their last gen versions peaking 170W-180W but the performance gain is around 3x, that is what a more valid generational performance jump. Nvidia need to double check their performance/power ratio kasi di uubra sa ibang bansa yung energy consumption.
Example na lng sa US, ang normal outlet nila dun is 120V. Around 1800W ata daw yung per outlet kung yung setup nya nag coconsume around 1000W alone, big red flag na yun pra sa knila.
Let alone idle temps/consumption tataas din kaya ngaun palang sa mga leaks marame na nagcoconsider lumipat sa kbila na nag oofer na better performance/power ratio.
I get your views about power consumption but my post seems to need clarification.
I was referring to the rumors that point towards 2-3.5x gen on gen performance uplift for Lovelace and RDNA3 respectively hence, what I said.
But to I have to comment that consoles have benefit from greater generational jumps because the console cycle is about 7 years with all the cumulative architectural and process node advancements that the long cycle carries with it, whereas a new graphics card architectures tends to run in two year cycles so the progress is more incremental.
The rumors of 800-900W total board power limits for Lovelace seem to point towards the flagship/halo SKUs. Historically, while the power consumption of GPUs have been on the uptrend, it's the high-end to flagship halo enthusiast parts for the money is no object crowd who don't care as much about their electricity bills nor diminishing returns. Like I said, Nvidia will probably just bruteforce their way for the GPU crown since RDNA3 is looking strong but that doesn't mean AMD will just sit there doing nothing. Expect an ultra enthusiast watercooled clocked to the heavens Radeon RDNA3 in response. Power consumption will also be high but probably still lower than nvidias.
Idle power consumption has only increased a little bit gen on gen because with downclocking and powergating technology becoming common place for a while now. The architectures of CPUs and GPUs have been designed with low power states for idle or low utilization for a long time now.
Of course, as with every generation, performance and power will scale up and down with product segmentation so buy the SKU fits your requirements. As always, the lower the SKU, the better the perf-per-watt. For the rest of us, it will always come down to the value of the whole package. Price, performance, features, stability and software support. Good efficiency is just a bonus.
Again, at the end of the day, I'm really curious to look into the perf-per-watt of the entire RTX-40 series and last I checked, the next gen haven't been launched yet so the only things we can go with are the rumors or leaks published on the internet.
^Kaso balita masyado mataas power requirements. May news na yung 4090 is even up to 56% faster than the 3090Ti but at around 450W na. Pass muna siguro ako sa next gen. Happy na ko sa Steamdeck at the moment #720plowmasterrace
Disagree, efficiency is not a bonus but a must. The trend of increasing power each generation just to give out more performance must be looked upon to because it's not a good sign for future cards. Each generation of cards doesn't need a big bump of performance but a more efficient power draw as we are already in the generation where graphical fidelity is reaching a diminishing returns when it comes to graphics.
A lot of people already is saying running at 4k is just a waste of resource for the gpu/cpu, upscaling is the new future of technology like DLSS/FSR. Imo, I would prefer if both amd/nvidia focused on how to dramatically reduce their flagship gpu's power consumption without losing too much performance. Not only will it benefit the consumers power-wise, but the overall environment of the world. (Climate Change)
^ Can we agree to disagree? :) I can see that what your saying is based on opinion rather than market demands and priorities which I've already stated (especially the price to performance factor) because regardless of what you're saying I don't see these companies going in the direction you want them to. Whenever there are gains in power efficiency, you bet these companies will release high end GPUs that will use up that headroom to fight for the crown. Such is close competition.
Again, you're free to buy any GPU model or brand to support your advocacy. That's why there exists mid range and low end models which actually make up majority of the sales and these models are scaled down GPUs which usually end up delivering reasonable to good efficiency. Exactly what you're looking for. The high end on the other hand, is the realm of performance above all and mainly caters to the minority of the gaming market as seen in the Steam hardware surveys.
Sir worth it bang bumili ng 3000 series ngaun? Napansin ko slightly above MSRP pa rin yung mga GPUs - and they raged na bumaba ng sobra yung prices - when they based it sa 2x Scalping price.
Anyhow ang release ng 4000 series is around September or October, and ETH's proof of work will end on those months as well.
I think I'll just hold on to my RTX 3080 which I got for 43k noong last year - before it got scalped by our beloved retailers here XD
Balak ko ksi mag mining for other coins and having an extra RTX 3080 should help I guess
If you're looking for top of the line cards then Amazon Prime Day ends in 6 hours.. I can see these GPU prices in Newegg/Amazon. All below their SRP
RTX 3090 Ti - $1499 (SRP $1999) - Newegg
RTX 3090 - $1299 (SRP $1499) - Amazon / Newegg
It may not be worth it though since you already have an RTX 3080.
Is it true na mataas power consumption ng 4000 series talaga?
If yes, baka another reason na din why ako magskip ng next generation GPU. I currently have an 850w PSU, feel ko sa next gen parang kukulangin na to.
Parang no point na for me to upgrade since wala na din time to play. Adulting is hard.
^ Buying an ex mining card is not bad lalo na kung maalaga (undervolted/maintained at cool temp room) yung owner. According to buildzoid, clean at repaste lang(kahit wag na palitan thermal pads) okay na.
Edit: Fan replacement din siguro pag tumagal since running @ 100% yung fans ng mining cards.
-- edited by TPC_GameGuard025 on Jul 18 2022, 02:15 AM
Is it true na mataas power consumption ng 4000 series talaga?
The leaks are saying this is the case even mid range cards are like masked high end last gen cards like for example 3090 = 4070 w/ like same power consumption with a new architecture I guess. I mean upcoming next gen cards are powerful that there is no such thing as mid range cards anymore. It most likely be low end and high end cards just like what nvidia did with 1630 card LOL.
nakita ko lang na ngbebenta si PichiHub ng PNY RTX 3080ti at 59k, parang less than msrp na,
bakit kaya gnun presyo ng pny?hindi ba maganda?hehe,curious lang, nakikita ko naman sa mga reviews onlie na
walang issues mga owners,
^^
Mejo di ako familiar sa terminology pagdating sa mga ups. eto ung nakita kong specs na "sapat na daw" 1000va and 600 watts? so kulang pa to if ever? dapat ung susunod na tier? Full load din kasi ung omni surge protector ko. buong pc, monitor, isang 2 tb external hardrive, mesh ng net, charger ng xbox controller, electric fan, at 5.1 speaker. haha
I would suggest getting a pure sine wave UPS though medyo mahal. Yung nabili ko nasa 11k kaso ito na yung cheapest na pure sine wave UPS na nahanap ko locally.
- CyberPower CP1500EPFCLCD UPS - (1500va 900w)
Yung power supply kasi pag active PFC kailangan daw pure sine wave ang pumapasok. You can try to read up on it for more information.
It will work, since pasok naman sa 600w yung total wattage ng components mo. Pero possible na mag fail. Na experience ko na to and sobrang hassle nya. Buti nalang walang na damage since pinalitan ko agad yung UPS ko.
Here's an excerpt:
There are mainly two types of UPS based on the output waveform they produce. First one is the Pure Sine Wave UPS and the second one is modified sine wave or square wave or quasi-square wave UPS.
Pure sine wave UPS produces current equivalent to the ones that comes in your homes from the power stations. These UPSs produces clean & safe current having uniform sine wave. This is the recommended current for all the devices. Pure Sine Wave UPSs are expensive because of the cost of circuitry and components involved in producing pure sine wave is much higher.
Modified Sine Wave UPS are the most common UPSs available in the market because they are much cheaper to manufacture. They generate modified sine wave / square wave or quasi-square wave. This type of current is not at all recommended for sensitive equipments & devices and it can damage them if used for a longer periods. It is because modified sine wave contains noise which can be picked up by the devices and they will not operate at its full efficiency or capacity. A modified sine wave UPS can also reduce the lifespan of your components in your PC.
The issue here is that SMPS with Active PFC do not like modified sine wave UPS or inverters. It is said that Active PFC power supplies requires much faster changeover time to switch from mains power to the power supplied by the UPS during battery mode, and due to the design and the cheap circuitry / components used in modified sine wave UPSs this is not possible and it will cause your PC to shut down.
So if you use a modified sine wave UPS with a PSU having active PFC then the following things can happen when the UPS operates or switches to battery mode.
- Your PC will restart when there is voltage fluctuation
- Huge noise can occur from SMPS
- Lower performance and risk of damage to PC components
- The restarting problem occurs more frequently because of the following two reasons:
When a modified sine wave UPS switches to battery mode Active PFC PSU can cause high initial load on the UPS which triggers the overload protection mechanism in UPS and it shuts down.
Another reason is that when a Active PFC SMPS gets a simulated sine wave then there occurs a power gap between the pure sine wave (power or current getting from mains) and modified wave (when UPC switches to battery) and this power gap causes a momentarily interruption of power to the PSU having Active PFC and it causes your PC to restart or shut down.
Pure Sine Wave (matches the power from your wall outlet)
Modified Sine Wave & Power Gap
Conclusion
It is always better and advisable to use a pure sine wave UPS for a SMPS having Active PFC. It will prevent you from various problems and your PC components will be safer. Some Power Supplies with Active PFC can work with modified sine wave UPS but it is not a good practice to use them and they will pose you greater problems in future.
So useless boss talaga if 1000va / 600 watts lang?
Sa 3700x and 3070 with monitor, ballpark estimate ko nasa 300 to 350 watts ang consumo ng system sa typical gaming. I would recommend yung 1500VA/900W na siguro para may enough runtime para mag save at mag shutdown properly pag nawalan ng ilaw habang full load yung pc. Katulad din ng nasabi na, maganda may allowance para sa battery degredation. Meron din overhead yung UPS which affects runtimes.
