Finally got all of the necessary materials to complete the job. Just ran against a particular issue: There appears to be no suitable mount location for the busbar anywhere inside the panel board.
Is it manageable to mount the busbar next to the panel board instead of inside the panel board? Bale exposed ang busbar and hindi nakamount anywhere in the panel board. Here is the same panel board in question <click here for link> (kindly scroll through the images for pictures of the inside)
This is possibly the only issue that's stopping me from burrowing the ground rod. In between that and the thought of how many hammer strikes it will take to get it all the way down ~9ft without a proper hammer drill. Hahah!
Beyond gathering the materials perhaps the biggest hurdle is the location of the rod. I read that the conductor must be going straight to the busbar. But all locations in mind will require a 90-degree turn kasi the conduit keeping the wire will be affixed to the ceiling. Di ko pwede iwanan sa sahig lang on the way to the busbar kasi hallway po ito.
I have another concern regarding the water heater at home. The setup is basically like this: From the outlet in the bathroom where the water heater is plugged into, the wire travels to a solo circuit breaker in the kitchen and then at the end of the circuit breaker there's a plug. The plug is attached to a solo socket in the kitchen made especially for the water heater. The problem is when I tried to replace the outlet I noticed the previously copper-looking wire is now charred-like. Insulation is still present, but the copper now looks black. To my knowledge hindi naaabot ng patak ng tubig itong area. I am under the impression na ito ay sunog. Ano po kaya ang nangyari dito? Does the water heater need a conductor larger than #12? Though even if it were the case most outlet receptacles can't take more than #12 so the only other option is to hardwire the water heater somehow.
Similarly, I found out that the outlets in my bedroom is wired to a 30amp circuit breaker. I read that for 30amp rated breakers there needs to be a #10 conductor at minimum. Pero there's nothing plugged in my bedroom that warrants a 30amp breaker, I assume it's only connected to a 30 amp because the room next to me used to have a 1HP window type air conditioner and both rooms share the same circuit breaker. So what possibly happened is when they decided to install the AC there they quickly transferred all the wires previously connected to a 20amp circuit breaker to a 30 amp to accommodate the AC. The electrician whom installed my 'grounded' outlet didn't have any qualms tapping to the same 30 amp circuit breaker and insisted upon it for the reason that "dito kasi nakakabit ang kwarto mo". I was just under the impression that 20 amps (#12 gauge) is for outlets and 15 amps (#14 gauge) is for lights.
My thinking is I have no appliances that will ever utilize 30 amps so my #12 wire shouldn't be in danger, but am I missing something?
-- edited by genyou on Jan 12 2021, 04:59 AM
Ask Sir Tony - an Electronics/Electrical Q & A thread
hindi ko po ma turn on ung cpu ko using the power button of the cpu case. shinorted ko lang po using screw driver ung sa motherboard and nag on. pero pag gnamit ko ung powerbutton ng case hindi po nagana. need ko na po ba magpalit ng board?
salamat sa sasagot
Sounds more like the power button (or its wires) is the problem.
anong okay na surge protector/extension cord with USB PORT 3A?
Mahal kasi ng Lasco.
Is it manageable to mount the busbar next to the panel board instead of inside the panel board?
That’s fine. It would violate code in the US, but it’s fine here and better than the alternative of no grounding. A reason why busbars are inside a panel board is so that it’s safely out of the way. If you can’t find a terminal lug instead that will fit inside your panel board you can proceed with bolting the busbar next to the panel board and just run a conductor to the panel board so it’s also grounded.