Mga sirs, ask ko lang:
Mas okay bang iparepair or replace na lang? Nasa magkano kaya kung ibebenta as defective?
- Samsung inverter ref 18cuft (warranty until December 2023)
- American Home microwave oven (expired warranty)
Salamat!
Forum Topic
Ask Sir Tony - an Electronics/Electrical Q & A thread
-
Does anyone know a reliable repair person/place of amplifiers?
-
Mga sir ask ko lang kung marerepair pa to? BIgla namatay yung TV suspetya ko habang nanonood ako bigla bumigay yung AVR yung TV kasi galing states so 110v sya so need AVR. Tingin ko over voltage ang nangyari.
Salamat!
-- edited by meruem on Oct 20 2021, 12:56 PM -
May nagrerepair po ba dito ng power supply, huntkey 14pin for Lenovo desktop.
-
Sir Tony pakiPM po ako, nagparepair ako sa inyo before. Thanks
-
May recommendation po kayo for a reliable and safe step-down transformer brand? I need it for my Christmas lights (110v, ~36w) and I was recommended a 150W Panther step-down transformer. I’m guessing this accounts for at least 3x allowance (36x3=108)
Is Panther reliable? I only ever used their power strips. I’m new to transformers and overwhelmed by the options available from MatchBacs to
Meiji.
Currently I’m using an Akari AVR that happens to have a 110v socket, but I need that AVR for something else so I still need to get a proper step-down transformer.
-- edited by inspirasian on Dec 11 2021, 02:32 AM -
^ LED ba yan, if it is, then you might wanna ask a technician to convert that to 220v instead, this Christmas lights usually runs as 12-24v DC on the LED lights anyway so its just a matter of tapping a external power brick that can run on 220v AC and it should work just fine.
kung jurassic type pa yang Christmas lights mo, I suggest replacing them with a newer LED ones instead. sakit sa ulo yang mga yan, kelangan may budget ka palagi for bulbs replacement on those things. Been running a LED based Christmas lights for 8 years now (i think) and all the bulbs still works just fine. walang basag, walang pundido.
transformers tends to get really hot even at light loads kahit oversized pa yang bilhin mo, this is probably due to efficiency loss sa conversion. so that's a fire risk alone not to mention a electrical shock risk as well lalo na kung gagamitin mo sa Christmas Tree. -
I appreciate your input. Yes, it’s LED lights. I could also get the EU version of the power supply (230v, but supposedly says 220-240v on the brick) pero my only issue with that is matagal ito dumating. Most likely after holidays na since it’s coming from EU. Getting someone to convert it is also an option, will consider looking for the right guy to do it. My only concern is it may void the light’s warranty since it’s a typical Wi-Fi enabled lights.
Ultimately if I have to choose between a step-down transformer and AVR (with a 100v and/or 110v socket) is the AVR considered safer of the two? I was reading a Panther article comparing the usage of the two and it seems to suggest the AVR could be safer, but not sure if it's just a post pandering to potential buyers.
The 120v power supply I’m currently using: <click here for link>
The 230v power supply that I was hoping to get sana if only it would arrive early: <click here for link>
-- edited by inspirasian on Dec 11 2021, 09:44 PM -
Ultimately if I have to choose between a step-down transformer and AVR (with a 100v and/or 110v socket)
a good AVR usually have 100-110v and rated for 50watts. yeah sure it works but why..... if you just teardown that AVR, that 110v is basically just Step down transformer with no AVR function.
is the AVR considered safer of the two?
converting that adapter to 220v power brick is much safer though.
I was reading a Panther article comparing the usage of the two and it seems to suggest the AVR could be safer,
this is assuming you were using that AVR but not that 110v -
Hi folks
Happy new year. I'm eyeing for a shower heater and most of the models now comes with built-in ELCB. Safety feature daw eto ng heater and the salesman mentioned that it doesn't need to have a ground anymore. Question to electrical experts - talaga ba no need na magpa install ng ground? Yung installer kase nila hinde na daw talaga nag i-install ng ground kahit anong brand or model ng heater na binebenta nila. Or pwede ba na ako na lang magpa install ng ground sa electrician bago ikabit yung heater? -
Kung may totoong ELCB yung heater no need for ground assuming na current-operated yung ELCB yung ginagamit, meaning RCCB/RCD/GFCI ang installed as part ng heater circuitry. Ang voltage operated ELCB (VO-ELCB) kailagan kasi ng ground para gumana. Para lang yang wall-mounted GFCI (mandatory sa wet areas like bathrooms pero mostly di implemented maliban sa mga establishments tulad ng hotels). Acceptable ang ungrounded GFCI kasi di necessary ang ground para sa function niya. Sa madaling salita, kung meron installed na residual current detection as protection para sa shock hazard then hindi kailangan ng ground.
Of course, yung protection na yan para lang sa heater mismo. Kung nahawakan mo yung socket kung saan naka-plug yung heater walang shock protection dun. Safest arrangement parin is to provide shock protection sa outlet level using a GFCI outlet OR GFCI/RCBO installed sa service panel (breaker box) connected sa wiring papunta sa banyo.
-- edited by HwiNoree on Jan 08 2022, 12:13 PM -
Hi Folks,
Ask ko lang sana, sa room ko kasi may naka series na wall sockets. so From the Breaker, unang nakasaksak is Refrigerator>Computer Monitor then next wall socket (1 meter apart; which is nakaseries padin) CPU>Router>TV
Everytime na nag turn ON compressor ng Refrigerator, namamatay saglit Computer monitor ko as if parang nag drop voltage sya..then mga 3 seconds mag ON ulit..
Makakatulong po ba kung yung Ref is sa outmost end ng series ko isaksak? o it doesn't matter?
Note: Solid copper wires ang gamit namin from breaker. -
^halos the same setup tayo KARU pero wala naman ako nagiging issue. inverter ba yun ref mo? idk if it makes sense dahil inverter yun ref ko so i'm thinking na soft or easy start lang si compressor ni inverter ref compared sa conventional na full load parati. you may take it as a grain of salt.
kung hindi naman, check mo baka meron lang looseor worn socket/s or plug/s sa lahat ng appliances along the circuit.
hth -
^halos the same setup tayo KARU pero wala naman ako nagiging issue. inverter ba yun ref mo? idk if it makes sense dahil inverter yun ref ko so i'm thinking na soft or easy start lang si compressor ni inverter ref compared sa conventional na full load parati. you may take it as a grain of salt.
kung hindi naman, check mo baka meron lang looseor worn socket/s or plug/s sa lahat ng appliances along the circuit.
hth
hindi inverter sir e, mini fridge lang sya (around 7 years old na), yung dating wires na nakakabit (inside the walls) ay putol na.. so naglatag kami bago starting sa breaker.
Pinili ko na yung makapal na solid wires (kahit nakagapang nalang outside the walls).. ngayon lang kasi ako nagref sa room, kaya iniisip ko kung may kaso ba kung sa dulo ko nalang sya isaksak.. hehehehe -
^yes, try mo ilipat sa dulo. or isolate mo muna sa circuit for testing.
-
Hi Folks,
Ask ko lang sana, sa room ko kasi may naka series na wall sockets. so From the Breaker, unang nakasaksak is Refrigerator>Computer Monitor then next wall socket (1 meter apart; which is nakaseries padin) CPU>Router>TV
Everytime na nag turn ON compressor ng Refrigerator, namamatay saglit Computer monitor ko as if parang nag drop voltage sya..then mga 3 seconds mag ON ulit..
Makakatulong po ba kung yung Ref is sa outmost end ng series ko isaksak? o it doesn't matter?
Note: Solid copper wires ang gamit namin from breaker.
Bago muna lahat, correction lang, marami kasing nalilito sa series at parallel. Ang wall outlets naka-parallel yan at hindi series. Tingnin ko ang nangyayari diyan pag nago-on ang compressor humahatak siya ng masyado maraming current kaya nawawalan ng supply yung monitor at namamatay ng saglit. Baka sign yan na meron problema yung ref (especially yung compressor) kaya masyado malakas ang hatak niya ng kuryente. Pwede mo basahin to:
Why Does Your Refrigerator Keep Tripping The Electricity?
<click here for link>
Kung wala naman problem ang ref ang ibang pwedeng gawin ay isaksak ang ref sa socket na hiwalay ang linya para hindi maapektuhan ang monitor o kaya yung monitor/PC ang isaksak sa hiwalay na line. Kahit ilagay mo sa ibang socket yung monitor pero iisang linya lang ang supply ng sockets, walang epekto yan at hindi mawawala ang problem. Pwede rin isaksak ang monitor sa AVR o UPS, pero hindi garantisado na mawala ang problema kasi may bilis ang AVR/UPS sa pag-react sa pagbasak ng current/voltage.
About yung inverter na refrigerator, hindi siya dapat magiging dahilan ng ganitong problema kasi ang inverter ref hindi namamatay ang compressor, tuloy tuloy lang ang takbo pero yung bilis ng compressor ang nagbabago. Sa mas lumang mga ref na non-inverter, ang compressor nagsa-cycle sa on at off para kontrolin ang lamig ng ref.
-- edited by HwiNoree on Jan 19 2022, 10:36 PM -
^thank you sir, nalinawan nako..
Option ko talaga mag UPS nalang.. pero medyo mahal kasi kaya inask ko muna.. thank you ulit sir -
Baka sign yan na meron problema yung ref (especially yung compressor) kaya masyado malakas ang hatak niya ng kuryente
possible. medyo may edad(7yrs) na rin kasi yun ref nya.
About yung inverter na refrigerator, hindi siya dapat magiging dahilan ng ganitong problema kasi ang inverter ref hindi namamatay ang compressor, tuloy tuloy lang ang takbo pero yung bilis ng compressor ang nagbabago.
my inverter AC's compressor periodically stops kaya ko lang din naisip yun. doon pa yata sa mga earlier models ng inverters ang continuous ang andar ng compressor. ganun din siguro sa mga latest models ng ref, nag dead silent din kasi minsan yung 2 inverter refs namin dito bahay. tho i can stand to be corrected kung mali yun observations ko. -
By definition kasi ang inverter refrigerators walang start-stop cycling, meaning hindi talaga tumitigil yung compressor. Baka yung dead silent compressor na sinasabi mo sobrang bagal lang ang takbo ng DC motor kaya akala mo naka-off pero in truth umiikot parin, mabagal lang talaga kaya di noticeable ang sound.
-
HwiNoree Send Message View User Items on 20 Jan 22 @ 04:39 PM #
By definition kasi ang inverter refrigerators walang start-stop cycling, meaning hindi talaga tumitigil yung compressor. Baka yung dead silent compressor na sinasabi mo sobrang bagal lang ang takbo ng DC motor kaya akala mo naka-off pero in truth umiikot parin, mabagal lang talaga kaya di noticeable ang sound.
ah ok sir,,,i got it. -
Hello po,
Tanong lang po. Nagpalit kami from LED light na cylinder (gumagamit ng starter na pang LED) to led light flat panel (gumagamit ng LED driver) pero napansin namin na may slight glow kahit naka off yung switch. Hindi naman ganun sa dating LED na gamit at walang glow sa ibang mga LED pin lights na nasa parehas na switch na dinadaanan. Ano po kaya cause nun at ang fix?
Salamat sa makakatulong.
-- edited by phobia on Jan 22 2022, 09:11 AM -
^Try mo basahin yung article na to, baka makatulong:
Why Do My LED Lights Glow when Switched Off?
<click here for link> -
@HwiNoree
Thanks po pero nabasa ko na yan bago magtanong dito. :)
Ang nagpapalito sa akin dahil LED light ang gamit namin noon pero wala namang glow tapos sa existing 3 switch may 4 pcs na LED pin light pero wala ding glow. So kung switched yung neutral at live diba dapat lahat ng LED light na gumamit ng same breaker magkakaron ng glow?
Ruled out na yung dimmer at light switch w/night light dahil di naman kami gumagamit nun.
At hindi naman naka parallel cable routing dahil di naman gumamit ng 3 way switch. Tama po ba pagkaintindi ko? -
So kung switched yung neutral at live diba dapat lahat ng LED light na gumamit ng same breaker magkakaron ng glow?
Actually hindi applicable ang part na to sa atin kasi hindi tayo gumagamit ng neutral for 220 volts unless nasa ilang probinsya ka kung saan yung supply isang 220 volt line at isang neutral. Ang Meralco supply 2 live at 1 neutral, ginagamit lang ang neutral for 110 volts.
At hindi naman naka parallel cable routing dahil di naman gumamit ng 3 way switch. Tama po ba pagkaintindi ko?
Hindi rin ata applicable to kasi sa pagkaintindi ko sa "here the voltage-carrying conductor can induce a voltage in the conductor separated from the switch" ay yung live line nag-iinduce ng voltage sa neutral na hindi nagdadala ng voltage. Tulad ng nabanggit ko, sa Meralco setup hindi gumagamit ng neutral.
BTW, ginawa mo ba yung test na nasa article?
If the bulb continues to glow weakly after removal, it is due to the luminescent layer or the LED driver. However, if the lamp goes out immediately when it is removed from the socket, the cause must be found in the electrical installation.
Eto kasi yung basic test para malaman kung yung glow nasa LED light mismo or dahil sa electrical supply. -
Hindi nawawala yung glow unless i-off ko yung switch sa breaker. Ano po kayang cause? Sa light switch kaya yung main problem? Kung sa light switch, bakit walang glow yung 4 na pin light na LED din at yung LED light na naunang ginamit?
Bale hindi LED bulb, kundi LED light panel na malaki tapos 2 yung LED drivers nya.
-- edited by phobia on Jan 22 2022, 07:01 PM -
Most likely meron some sort of current na nagflo-flow parin kahit naka off ang switch. Baka yung old LED lights na gamit mo hindi masyado sensitive sa konting current na to, kaya walang ilaw. Speculation ko lang, pero napapaisip ako kung may kinalaman yung glow sa fact na sa 220 volt supply ng Meralco ang dalawang kuryente parehong live. Ang regular switch pinuputol niya lang ang supply ng 1 live line. Ang circuit breaker, specifically double pole breaker (necessary kapag parehong live ang lines) pinuputol yung supply ng 2 lines ng sabay. Kailangan to for safety purposes para pag may nagtrabaho sa mga linya hindi sila makukuryente.
Pwede to i-test experimentally, kaso hassle nga lang, gagawa ka ng circuit kung saan meron 2 switches, isa kada linya, tapos titignan mo kung may glow kung naka-off ang 1 switch lang versus 2 switches na parehong naka-off. Kung may glow sa 1 switch off tapos nawawala kapag 2 switches nasa off then yan na ang sagot, ang glow ay dahil may isang live line parin na nagsu-supply ng current/voltage sa LED light.
-- edited by HwiNoree on Jan 22 2022, 07:26 PM -
Meron kayang nabibili na easy to install na resistor/capacitor na pwede ikabit sa linya bago dumerecho sa LED drivers na mag restrict ng current pag hindi naka turn on yung switch?
-
Hindi ko rin alam eh, meron rin akong nabasang articles na nagsu-suggest gumamit ng Zener diode, neon lamp or bypass capacitor (https://www.saazs.com/how-to-stop-led-lights-glowing-when-off/) para mabawasan ang residual current. Maybe licensed electrician may idea kung paano gawin yan (note na maraming electrician ay di lisensyado at natuto lang informally).
-- edited by HwiNoree on Jan 22 2022, 07:45 PM -
Sana makahanap ako ng fix. Thank you sa pagsagot sir HwiNoree! :D
-
phobia
Meron kayang nabibili na easy to install na resistor/capacitor na pwede ikabit sa linya bago dumerecho sa LED drivers na mag restrict ng current pag hindi naka turn on yung switch?
madaling solusyon dyan ay ang paggamit ng DPST (double pole single throw switch). para pag pinatay mo, sabay madidisconnect ang wire ng kuryente. yun nga lang yung mga nakita kong benebenta sa syapee, walang sariling enclosure, kailangan mo pa mag_DIY.