Forum Topic

Post your MacGyverization here (Crazy Mods/Quick Fixes that works)

  • @rufnek: pwede kaya ganyan style sa isang 32inch LED tv? sira na kasi yung system board at wala na makitaang replacement
  • ^
    I depends on the controller. Usually you can ask the seller if the controller is compatible with your LCD, so you have to know the actual brand/model of the LCD panel inside the TV.

    It's best to find a datasheet so you'll know what kind of connector it has, as well as the pinout.

    He mentioned that he needed to modify his cable in order to match the pinout of his screen.
  • now it gave me hope kasi may sirang LG 32LE5500 ako na nakatambak lang dito sa bahay, taon na din binilang nito at ngayon lang ako naging aware na may universal boards na pala and good thing meron pang datasheet nito sa net
  • @NeoRedZ check the specs if supported yung monitor size mo but mas maganda driver board na specific sa lcd model para salpak nalang. Also it depends kung sira na mismo yung board ng lcd useless din pero it's worth a try.

    Mukhang dual lvds yung model mo pre not sure about that..
    <click here for link>

    Arduino Ref Timer

    3hrs off / 9hrs on
    2channel relay

    Ref & laptop charger timer by rufnek
    Ref = 9hrs on & 3hrs off
    Laptop = 1hr on 1hr off
    //ref constants
    unsigned long ref1 = 32400; //9hrs
    unsigned long ref2 = 10800; //3hrs

    //laptop constants
    unsigned long lpt1 = 3600; //1hr for laptop charging
    unsigned long lpt2 = 3600; //unsused, can be set to 30min or anything

    //timer initializations
    unsigned long time_nowref1 = 0;
    unsigned long time_nowref2 = 0;
    unsigned long time_nowlpt1 = 0;
    unsigned long time_nowlpt2 = 0;

    // the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
    void setup() {
    time_nowref1 = 0;
    time_nowlpt1 = 0;
    pinMode(PC13, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(PA6, OUTPUT); //led
    pinMode(PA5, OUTPUT); //ref
    pinMode(PA4, OUTPUT); //laptop

    // the loop function runs over and over again forever
    unsigned long n=1;
    unsigned long x=1;
    void loop() {
    int s = millis()/1000; //convert millis to seconds

    if(s > time_nowref1){ // if current time is greater than ref timer 1
    if(n % 2){ //if have remainder
    time_nowref1 = s + ref1; //set timer to 9hrs
    digitalWrite(PA6, HIGH); //set PA6 to 5v
    digitalWrite(PA5, HIGH); //set PA5 to 5v
    }else{ //no remainder
    time_nowref1 = s + ref2; //set ref timer to 3hrs
    digitalWrite(PA6, LOW); //set PA6 to 0v
    digitalWrite(PA5, LOW); //set PA5 to 0v

    if(s > time_nowlpt1){ //is current time > laptop timer 1
    if(x % 2){ //do we have remainder?
    time_nowlpt1 = s + lpt1; //set laptop timer current seconds plus laptop timer 1
    digitalWrite(PA4, HIGH); //set PA4 to 5v
    digitalWrite(PC13, HIGH); //set PC13 to 5v
    }else{ //we dont have remainder
    time_nowlpt1 = s + lpt1; //set laptop timer to current seconds plus laptop timer 1 (or 2 if you want different time)
    digitalWrite(PA4, LOW); //set PA4 to 0v
    digitalWrite(PC13, LOW); //set PC13 to 0v


    -- edited by rufnek on Apr 01 2019, 02:34 PM
  • Exhaust Fan Blade Balancing

    masisira agad bearings dahil sa unbalanced fan blades
    electrical tape for balancing

    -- edited by piLio on Apr 09 2019, 04:03 PM
  • I have an old 4D cell incandescent lantern converted to LED.

    cellphone battery attached to the circuit board of a powerbank, just so I can easily charge it with a micro usb and I can tell how much charge is in it. Plus I cannibalized all the old crappy LED flashlights I had and used the LED emitters

    This is a light meant to be a test bed, something I can fool around and experiment with.

    My problem is, sometimes when fooling around, I accidentally short it. The battery dies. Waiting 15 min does nothing. The thing that works for me is to unsolder one wire from the battery then wait 1 min. Is there any better way to revive the battery after a short?
  • That's one butt-ugly hack. :P

    But if it works, I have no quarrel with it. :D
  • either ugly or I throw away perfectly usable LED emitters
  • ^
    Perhaps some PVC pipe + fittings could be used to make a flashlight body.

    I've already given it some thought TBH, but then I found a relatively bright LED flashlight at Japan Home that has variable focus and fits one 18650 cell without any modification. Bonus points with the included bike mount :D
  • resurrected my 11-year old hp mininote 2133 netbook from the dead last year. its problem was too much heating of its hard disk and cpu. my solution was since it has a full-body aluminum frame, i thought of using it as its own heatsink.

    and i used aluminum shims to act as heat media for transferring the heat coming from the cpu and hdd.

    -- edited by ututin1 on May 06 2019, 12:01 AM
  • used some thermal tapes to pin the aluminum shims down against the aluminum frame.

    and finally, installed linux lite 32-bit and dual-booted it with windows xp.

    now my cat can sleep soundly in cat heaven! hehe

  • sa mga gumagamit ng LVDS, ok pa kaya panel ko?
    hindi ko alam if PSU or driver ang may issue. tingin niyo?

    Dell P2214Hb

    <click here for link>
  • Friend bought a casing with a bottom PSU mount, but it turns out the cables for the +12V power connector on his current PSU were too short. We couldn't find any cable extenders in the PC stores we visited.

    Rather than buy a new PSU, we decided to extend the cable ourselves by splicing the cable. We went to Ace Hardware and bought the ff:

    1 meter #18 AWG duplex wire black (for GND)
    1 meter #18 AWG duplex wire white (for +12v)
    1 pack heat shrink tube
    1 60w soldering iron
    soldering wire

    Total cost was below 700 pesos, but most of that was due to the soldering iron. Had I brought my iron the cost would have been a little over 200.

    The PSU and motherboard had two 12V power connectors (8 pins total). We extended them by half a meter. The duplex wire made it really neat.
  • I acquired two broken USB wifi adapters from one of my clients

    One had the USB connector ripped out, the other lost the antenna (and the RP-SMA jack).

    The first one was a lost cause, but the second one still worked and can actually detect networks-- very weak, of course, and can't connect at all.

    So I inspected its circuit board and found out that the solder pad for the center pin of the RP-SMA antenna jack was gone (ripped out along with the jack itself). But I noticed that there there was a via which lead to a circuit trace to the underside of the circuit board (the wifi adapter has a double-sided PCB). I was pretty sure it's for the antenna signal, so I hatched a plan:

    1. I desoldered the RP-SMA jack from the first adapter
    2. Lightly scratched the circuit trace to expose the copper so I can solder on it
    3. Installed the RP-SMA jack upside down so its center pin lines up with the exposed copper trace.

    There was a 1mm gap between the center pin and the copper trace, but I managed to bridge it with solder. Then soldered the antenna jack's ground legs to complete the connection (and of course for mechanical support).

    I'm currently testing it right now on my laptop (with built-in wifi disabled), and it's working without issues. :D

    Now I only need to find a new cover/enclosure for it-- the client also broke/lost the plastic enclosures of the wifi cards. *sigh*

    -- edited by awakeruze on Jul 02 2019, 06:16 PM
  • Powerbank na nabibili sa SM department store, near the school supplies. PHP 300 but 30% off. I think there were like 15 left and all but 2 were totally drained.

    Plastic case is easily pried open. Claimed capacity 4000 mah. I don't know how accurate the charging amp meter app on my cellphone is but I get only 1000 or so mah. So 350 or so mah for each cell?

    You can use them for spare parts. I will use the low capacity cheap 18650 batteries for 18650 flashlights that dont need high capacity, saving my good 18650 cells for times when they are needed

    -- edited by AmalgamvsAloof on Aug 14 2019, 07:21 PM
  • Got a free Pentium M laptop from a client. Some keys are hard to press, turns out there are staples under them-- laptop was used in an office for years so it's not surprising.

    Used a thin magnet (taken from a laptop hard disk) and ran it through the gaps between keys. Removed 3-4 staples this way. :D